jolmari Posted August 8, 2015 Report Share Posted August 8, 2015 Gotcha. The jersey is a bit damaged already, so it's not that big of a deal if it's damaged more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LessThanZero Posted September 1, 2015 Report Share Posted September 1, 2015 (edited) I just picked up a late 90's Dallas Star Modano jersey off of Craigslist. Looked good, size 56 like I like but the numbers and name are heat pressed on. Should I leave it or is there a trick to getting it off. It's a white "Star" jersey if that helps. I don't mind the heat pressing since I'm not going to wear it out and about, its that fact that if feels like stiff plastic that bothers me. ETA: I was pretty much able just able to peel the name plate off. Problem is it was all glue under it. I wanted to switch it out and make it into a Brett Hull jersey but the numbers won't budge. So, I just pressed the name plate back on and I'll have everything sewn on so at least it looks somewhat normal. Oh well....... Edited September 1, 2015 by LessThanZero Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
furiousd Posted October 7, 2015 Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 Heh. I have a grab bag Bruins training camp jersey that I'm going to strip and send to EPS to make into a Chara soon. I have a couple halfsies-type projects like yours sitting around, and the numbers have seemed to work out to having someone else do it, mainly because I have other work to bundle in and can distribute the shipping cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LAK74 Posted October 7, 2015 Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 I was thinking about turning into a Chara jersey since the size would be similar to a goalie cut and I would only need to replace the 5 with a second 3 and a new nameplate. First, what will the cost entail if I did it myself? Second, would it be easier just to send it off to EPS or someone else so they can get the numbers and nameplate right? If you keep the existing 3's and send the jersey to EPS or anyone other than Custom Crafted, there is the possibility that the new 3's may not exactly match the existing ones fontwise, or even in the texture or color of the twill. I've had just nameplates replaced before by someone other than the original customizer and have been surprised by how different the twill texture/color is compared to what was already on the jersey. I'm still considering fixing those, even though I'd probably have to strip off all the numbers and basically start over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMLFAN Posted October 7, 2015 Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 If your going to strip it then it's best to just start from scratch. Adding to what LAK said, even if you sent it to custom crafted there is a chance the new stuff wouldn't match. That jersey was customized almost 10 years ago, the twill could have faded a bit or maybe even custom crafted uses a different twill that will look a little different now. Who knows but to avoid any problems its best to just do it from scratch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LAK74 Posted October 7, 2015 Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 ^ Excellent point. When I send my Kings 6100's in to Bobcat, they can't get the same purple twill Bob used to use at AIS, so there's no guarantee that even the original customizers will still use the exact same materials they used some time ago. I don't think it's worth keeping a few old numbers just to save a few bucks- you may end up buying yourself more headaches in the form of re-dos, shipping jerseys back to get fixed, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessieka Posted October 7, 2015 Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 Thanks so much for the forum post.Much thanks again. Really Cool. Gellman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfitz804 Posted October 7, 2015 Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 Agreed, a partial strip may work but it's not worth the risk. Besides, keep the NY guy that fits your collection and don't be one of the millions of people with a Chara jersey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjjoejr Posted October 16, 2015 Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 A bit off topic but I'm wondering if anyone has experience of stripping a MLB authentic jersey in the past? Is it any different from stripping a Hockey jersey? I've stripped a few hockey jerseys with no problems and did them very cleanly. Any stories is appreciated! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brilliant! Posted October 16, 2015 Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 What style? Double-knit or CoolBase? Because you might be able to get the former off clean but the CoolBase stuff will NOT strip without damage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjjoejr Posted October 16, 2015 Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 Double-knit. I'm guessing it's quite similar to hockey jerseys... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brilliant! Posted October 16, 2015 Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 What team, year and manufacturer? Believe it or not, it matters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffB Posted October 17, 2015 Report Share Posted October 17, 2015 I've stripped older double knit baseball jerseys with very few problems getting the names and numbers off. Once the numbers are off, I have had regular issues with the bottom layer of twill color bleeding from the adhesives and heat pressing and staining the jersey. For example, I'm a Twins fan, and their white pinstripe jerseys have red numbers with a blue outline, making the blue the base color. After stripping the numbers off, blue stains remain on the back of the jersey. I took the jersey to my local dry cleaners and they tried the modern "green" chemicals to get the stain out with no luck. They then sent it to their "expert" who uses the old-fahioned harsher chemicals and it came out 100% factory fresh with no issues with the blue pinstripes. I then sprayed it with some water and ran the iron over it to close up any holes remaining from the original stitching evidence and sent it out to be customized. Now, times have changed and I'd be very, very leery of attempting a cool base jersey. Those look very delicate and risky for pulls and tears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfitz804 Posted October 18, 2015 Report Share Posted October 18, 2015 I'm wearing a Cool Base as we speak, and the material is softer and thinner than an EDGE jersey. EDGE 2.0s strip beautifully. I think doing a Cool Base would be a disaster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CincyDucks25 Posted October 22, 2015 Report Share Posted October 22, 2015 (edited) Hi everyone.So I'll get right to it. I have here a Paul Kariya replica of a Mighty Ducks colored alternate jersey made by CCM (air-knit). Everything is heat pressed, and I want to remove the C since it's located wrong (should be in the purple area). I've read a lot of positive results about using acetone, but my concern with this is that the jersey is 100% polyester and I've read mixed results on acetone damaging polyester. What do you guys think is the best way to go about this? And have any of you had problems with acetone and polyester? Thanks! Edited October 22, 2015 by CincyDucks25 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LAK74 Posted October 22, 2015 Report Share Posted October 22, 2015 Actually the great majority of hockey jerseys are 100% polyester, so your jersey doesn't look like it's anything out of the ordinary material-wise. I would think it unlikely that you will have any bad reactions with acetone on polyester, unless the jersey is 1) sublimated, 2) contains Edge material (x-trafil or stretch mesh), or 3) has intensely colored twill that can bleed color onto the underlying jersey material. None of these conditions should apply to your airknit jersey, so I think there is a very good chance you will be OK. How difficult this will be will depend a lot on how much glue was used during the heat-press process. Can you try to partially peel the C off by picking at the corners without any chemicals? If so, this may be relatively easy. If it feels like it's stuck firmly and won't budge at all, then you'll just have to roll the dice and see how well the acetone works. There is another thread in this forum on using acetone to remove heat-sealed lettering, which is not exactly the same thing, but many of the principles and procedures would be applicable here. http://forums.icejerseys.com/index.php?showtopic=4153&st=0 Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CincyDucks25 Posted October 23, 2015 Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 ^ Thanks King. I took what you said and tried various ways of applying heat to remove it, but I ended up using acetone.The acetone worked like a charm; the C came off in a matter of minutes, no discoloration, and no effects to the fabric. I scrubbed for an extra 10 minutes with acetone and Goof Off before washing it, but still have quite a visible mark left from the remaining adhesive. Should I keep working it with Acetone and Goof Off? Or might I be able to melt it off onto a paper? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LAK74 Posted October 23, 2015 Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 Wow, there's still quite a bit of adhesive left which I thought would have come off with the Goof-Off. I have had some luck putting paper over the residue and heating it with an iron. The adhesive usually comes off when you peel the paper back, but I don't know how completely that would work here. Probably wouldn't hurt to give it a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Dude_Abides Posted November 23, 2015 Report Share Posted November 23, 2015 (edited) Hey guys, I've attempted my first strip job and it's going pretty well. Only problem is the shoulder numbers have a base layer of red...and the Air-Knit is white. There is a faint pink outline stain. Should I just abort now or will Goof Off get this out? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Edited November 23, 2015 by The_Dude_Abides Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pens4ever Posted November 23, 2015 Report Share Posted November 23, 2015 Some rubbing with acetone and gone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Dude_Abides Posted November 23, 2015 Report Share Posted November 23, 2015 Some rubbing with acetone and gone! Thanks! Do I need to worry about the red strip that's right next to the part with the outline? Will Acetone cause color bleed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pens4ever Posted November 23, 2015 Report Share Posted November 23, 2015 Without guarantee, but as long as you concentrate on the white part and don't rub from red to white with tons of acetone, it should not be a problem! I stripped around 15 jerseys so far from super hard glued kits to easy removable and never had a real problem with bleeding from the actual jersey material. Only had a bit of bleeding once while removing the red kit from a white Red Wings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Dude_Abides Posted November 23, 2015 Report Share Posted November 23, 2015 (edited) Sounds good man. I'll give it a try. How about outlines from the main numbers on the back? You can barely see them but is acetone okay on dark blue Air-Knit as well? I ordered some Goof Off yesterday as a backup just in case. Edited November 23, 2015 by The_Dude_Abides Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pens4ever Posted November 23, 2015 Report Share Posted November 23, 2015 (edited) As we don't have Goof Off over here, I can't really say anything on that stuff, but for me acetone worked perfectly for any kind of color so far. Some different kind of outlines might also remain from the stitching, where acetone of course doesn't help. After the acetone treatment I always give the jersey a short ride in the washing machine and use a steam iron (I put a thin towel as protection on the jersey) to ease up the stitching outlines (if there are any). Edited November 23, 2015 by Pens4ever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfitz804 Posted November 23, 2015 Report Share Posted November 23, 2015 As we don't have Goof Off over here, I can't really say anything on that stuff, but for me acetone worked perfectly for any kind of color so far. Some different kind of outlines might also remain from the stitching, where acetone of course doesn't help. After the acetone treatment I always give the jersey a short ride in the washing machine and use a steam iron (I put a thin towel as protection on the jersey) to ease up the stitching outlines (if there are any). I have also found that doing the steam iron bit when the jersey is straight out of the washing machine helps also. Applying heat (through a cotton towel as described) to a wet jersey generates additional steam and really helps to get things flattened out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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