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How To STRIP A JERSEY 101


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I can't answer your question about what EPS uses, but I've had some success using Goof Off Super Glue Remover.

image_zpsyj0nojiq.jpeg

A recent jersey I stripped had some stubborn dark glue outlines on a white background, and it pretty much all came out. The lines that are still visible are mostly due to fading of the ultrafil surrounding the numbers, relative to the previously covered areas.

Before:

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After:

image_zpsiag9mhdt.jpeg

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I was curious about that stuff, good to know that it works and seems to be safe for at least ultrafil. That worked really well.

Did you try acetone or did you just go to that stuff?

Edited by JoeM7392
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LAK, can you describe the method you used? I have an hour to kill in the morning, maybe I'll go get some Goof Off.

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Honestly, fitz, there isn't much method to it. Put a clean towel underneath the area to be cleaned. Dab a second clean towel with your cleaner of choice.* Scrub. Wash the jersey when you're done and steam out stitch outlines as needed.

* I prefer acetone, just because it's not as nasty a mixture of organics like you get with goof-off. I've used both, though.

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I was curious about that stuff, good to know that it works and seems to be safe for at least ultrafil. That worked really well. Did you try acetone or did you just go to that stuff?

To be perfectly honest, I can't remember if I used acetone or just regular Goof-Off first. I just remember that the Super Glue Remover seemed to work faster. So I'm not sure at all how much better this stuff is than just pure acetone. I tried this stuff because someone else here (I'm pretty sure it was Hockey Bob) was raving about it.

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LAK, can you describe the method you used? I have an hour to kill in the morning, maybe I'll go get some Goof Off.

Nothing special. I usually start off applying the solvent to a clean soft cloth and then rubbing it into the affected areas of the jersey. If it's slow going, I may just bypass the cloth and apply the solvent directly to the jersey fabric. I often just fold the jersey and rub 2 different stained portions against each other, but you don't want to rub too hard, as this can cause pilling, especially with ultrafil. If I feel it's taking a really long time to clean, I just call it quits and start rinsing out the solvent, letting it air dry so I can have another go at it later.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Swapped a vector patch for a word mark on a white Edge jersey and around the edges there is some pretty heavy glue residue from how tight the vector patch was sewn down. Acetone ok to use up there? Tried an iron first and it didn't do much.

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Yeah it's ok. Use caution as always but in my experience it's gonna be tough to get it off.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'll PM you, Justin. 

Also, Blake Sports does the Stars jerseys. 

Edited by thebiggoalie
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If the jersey is the green alternate version I wouldn't touch it.  The green colour and design is sublimated  on white air-knit.  Stripping sublimated fabric is a big time pain because most of the time a lot of the white fabric pulls through when your removing the old stuff and makes the area look like crap.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hey guys, I'm in the process of stripping the name off a Dallas Stars current road jersey at the moment and was pretty bummed out to find after removing the stitching that the letters were glued to the jersey. So far from everything I've read acetone seems like a good way to get them off but what do y'all feel is the best way? I am also considering sending it to EPS but would rather save a few bucks by getting them off my self. I will post pics when I get home if that helps. Thanks in advance!

Edited by gh6912
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9 minutes ago, gh6912 said:

Hey guys, I'm in the process of stripping the name off a Dallas Stars current road jersey at the moment and was pretty bummed out to find after removing the stitching that the letters were glued to the jersey. So far from everything I've read acetone seems like a good way to get them off but what do y'all feel is the best way? I am also considering sending it to EPS but would rather save a few bucks by getting them off my self. I will post pics when I get home if that helps. Thanks in advance!

Ha!  I'm in the middle of the exact same project and was going to post pics of the process after I was done.  I've gotten the letters off and did a quick check with acetone to see if it would take the green residue off.  The check looked good, and I'll find some time to get it done before the weekend is out. 

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42 minutes ago, furiousd said:

Ha!  I'm in the middle of the exact same project and was going to post pics of the process after I was done.  I've gotten the letters off and did a quick check with acetone to see if it would take the green residue off.  The check looked good, and I'll find some time to get it done before the weekend is out. 

Nice! Keep me posted, this is my first time dealing with glue so I'm a bit timid. 

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I had been wanting a Stars road jersey for a while, so when a bunch preseason jerseys went up on ebay, I picked up a #47 Gemel Smith.  Aside from the good price, I was hoping it would be easy to turn it into an Oduya.  Well, the hard part is done, and I took pictures along the way in case it helps anyone.

Original jersey:

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I used my trusty seam ripper to remove all of the stitching.  Since they don't use nameplates, I took my time so that I didn't snag the Edge material.  All but three letters pulled off with no trouble.

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The SMI seemed to have gotten pressed more thoroughly than the rest of the name.  I didn't want to yank too hard and pull the jersey material, so I got out the ironing board.  I put a white t-shirt over the remaining letters and hit them with the iron on high steam.  This scared me for a moment, because I was afraid I had actually pressed them on more.  I stayed patient and worked up an edge on each one until I could get a good grasp and peel them off.  All of the letters left some glue, but the SMI was the vast majority of it.  Also, there were some stitch outlines remaining.

20160702_192944.jpg

I overlaid the t-shirt again and gave the area some more steam hoping to 1) steam out the stitch outlines and 2) transfer some of the glue to the t-shirt.  Only #1 happened.  The glue didn't budge.

20160627_213739.jpg

At this point I moved the ironing board out to the back patio.  I put a white towel down behind the name, then lightly scrubbed the glue residue with a white microfiber cloth moistened with acetone (hardware store variety).  I worked at this until I couldn't tell in the evening light whether there was any glue left.  Then I ran the jersey through the wash and hung it to dry.  At this point, I probably could have called it done.  Looking at it closely, my wife commented, "if I didn't know what it looked like before, I don't think I could tell you where the letters had been."  I agreed, but I did know where the letters had been...

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Today I repeated the acetone scrub routine, washed it again, and hung it to dry.  If I get about 6 inches away and the light hits it just right, I can barely see some green remaining.  Once the new name is stitched on, I don't think I'll ever look at it nearly that closely again.  I wouldn't want to make a habit of stripping white jerseys, but in this case I figured it was worth a shot.  It turned out well, and it's only going to cost around ten bucks to get the new name put on. 

20160702_192531.jpg

 

 

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6 hours ago, furiousd said:

I wouldn't want to make a habit of stripping white jerseys, but in this case I figured it was worth a shot.

That's what I said too. But once you've done it, you'll find reasons to do it again. 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Anyone have any experience stripping a jersey from Lutch? Have a AK Bars jersey from 2012/13 that I want redone. Just wondering about how much adhesive they use and if it'd be worth it. 

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10 minutes ago, Skubie-Doo said:

It's only a small step and minor operation per se, but I'm glad I found this thread. Got a seam ripper for $2 on Amazon Prime and now I'm removing all the front tags from my Reebok premiers. They look so much better now.

I hate those tags also. Actually I just hate Premiers in their entirety. 

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Premiers have their place. I don't begrudge people who collect them. I think they're crap but if you want to collect them, more power to you. Hell, the majority of my collection is made up of pre-lockout replicas.

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7 hours ago, TheKevinShow said:

Premiers have their place. I don't begrudge people who collect them. I think they're crap but if you want to collect them, more power to you. Hell, the majority of my collection is made up of pre-lockout replicas.

People can collect anything they want, but pre-lockout replicas were multiple times over better quality than Premiers. 

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3 hours ago, mfitz804 said:

People can collect anything they want, but pre-lockout replicas were multiple times over better quality than Premiers. 

Indeed they are.

I'm wondering if, with all of the replicas I've sent to EPS, I should have asked them to sew down the logos and shoulder patches. I'm sure that's something they can do.

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22 minutes ago, TheKevinShow said:

Indeed they are.

I'm wondering if, with all of the replicas I've sent to EPS, I should have asked them to sew down the logos and shoulder patches. I'm sure that's something they can do.

Yes they will do that. I believe its $12-15 per crest and $6.50 for smaller patches, generally speaking. Depending on the jersey, it can be costly (one crest, one CCM logo, two shoulder patches, you're already at $31.50 if $12 is correct)

I have been having them sew down the NHL Shields on my 2.0's also, it keeps the edges from peeling and/or being pointy like they are. And its a minimal change I'm fine with making on a non-game worn even if its not 100% on ice authentic. 

 

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10 minutes ago, mfitz804 said:

Yes they will do that. I believe its $12-15 per crest and $6.50 for smaller patches, generally speaking. Depending on the jersey, it can be costly (one crest, one CCM logo, two shoulder patches, you're already at $31.50 if $12 is correct

Holy crap, that's expensive. Have you considered getting a machine and doing it yourself? It's pretty easy.

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