mfitz804 Posted August 31, 2016 Report Share Posted August 31, 2016 14 minutes ago, furiousd said: Holy crap, that's expensive. Have you considered getting a machine and doing it yourself? It's pretty easy. I don't pay them to do replicas, but I did get the price quote once. They don't charge any differently if its just sewing down an existing patch or sewing a new loose patch on, if I recall. I do pay for the NHL shield, $6.50 is fine so that I don't have to do it, plus they are thick and I imagine hard to do for someone who has never sewn more than a button. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
furiousd Posted August 31, 2016 Report Share Posted August 31, 2016 If I didn't already have a machine, I doubt I would buy one just to do patches. An extra $31 per jersey if I were doing replicas - that would be a different story. Are 2.0 shields only glued down? I thought they were sewn, but maybe I've never looked to see for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheKevinShow Posted August 31, 2016 Report Share Posted August 31, 2016 1 hour ago, mfitz804 said: Yes they will do that. I believe its $12-15 per crest and $6.50 for smaller patches, generally speaking. Depending on the jersey, it can be costly (one crest, one CCM logo, two shoulder patches, you're already at $31.50 if $12 is correct) I have been having them sew down the NHL Shields on my 2.0's also, it keeps the edges from peeling and/or being pointy like they are. And its a minimal change I'm fine with making on a non-game worn even if its not 100% on ice authentic. Yeesh. I'd be looking at at least an additional $81 for my latest order. I think I'll pass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LAK74 Posted August 31, 2016 Report Share Posted August 31, 2016 The older pointy ones are already sewn down. The newer Lextra ones are heat-pressed only, but they seem stuck down pretty good. I don't imagine they would peel off under normal usage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfitz804 Posted August 31, 2016 Report Share Posted August 31, 2016 7 minutes ago, LAK74 said: The older pointy ones are already sewn down. The newer Lextra ones are heat-pressed only, but they seem stuck down pretty good. I don't imagine they would peel off under normal usage. I don't sew the Lextra ones, just the older ones. And yes, they are sewn, but not at the edges. The edges can (and in my experience, do) still peel up to the point where they are sewn. Case in point, here's a brand new with tags 2.0, this is a view with the collar bent forward to expose the top of the shield; its already separated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfitz804 Posted September 2, 2016 Report Share Posted September 2, 2016 4 minutes ago, Dr_Puck said: Yes, Virginia... There is such a thing as a 'dumb question.' When I strip off a name, I just do the letters and leave the nameplate, right? No, you strip the plate and leave the letters. If you intend to re-use the nameplate, or if soneone sewed the letters through the plate AND the jersey, then you take the letters off individually. Proper order of things is name sewn to plate, plate sewn to jersey. Name should not be sewn to jersey. So leaving the plate on is incorrect, and it will also be the wrong size unless the new name is the same number of letters, or its one of those jerseys that uses a shoulder to shoulder plate regardless of length. Don't think any NHL teams have that though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
furiousd Posted September 2, 2016 Report Share Posted September 2, 2016 (edited) Yeah, unless the letters are stitched through both the plate and the jersey, just remove the plate. Even if you don't intend to reuse the plate material, hold on to it, especially if it's Edge or a hard to find color. Someone will be looking for it in the future. Edited September 2, 2016 by furiousd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
furiousd Posted September 2, 2016 Report Share Posted September 2, 2016 Also, sometimes it's easier to rip the backing stitch instead of the top stitch. You can skip every second or third stitch and just pull the loose backing thread along. I mainly only do that when I'm going to reuse the letters, though. If the letters are going in the trash, I just use them as a backstop and bulldoze through the top stitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfitz804 Posted September 3, 2016 Report Share Posted September 3, 2016 49 minutes ago, Dr_Puck said: Granted I'm not panini pressing or cutting out my own numbers but this is a first. Yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PensJerseys Posted September 10, 2016 Report Share Posted September 10, 2016 (edited) What would be the approach to removing this stuff, if possible? Acetone? The photos in one of the original posts in this thread went over some stuff, but the links to said photos are long gone, so I can't compare. Edited September 10, 2016 by blurryhaze312 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfitz804 Posted September 10, 2016 Report Share Posted September 10, 2016 Just now, Dr_Puck said: I just have to say that de-stitching a plate and numbers is the most time consuming process ever. My hand is cramped up like a mofo. It gets easier the more you do it, honestly. I'm easily twice as fast as I was when I started, I've done somewhere around 8-10. I'm moving away from it, unless I can find crazy good deals that I wouldn't mind keeping as is in the event I try to strip and it doesn't come clean. My favorites have been sale priced, EPS done Devils game issueds. They generally come pretty clean, and whatever residue is left, EPS gets right off when they are being re-customized. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebiggoalie Posted September 11, 2016 Report Share Posted September 11, 2016 5 hours ago, blurryhaze312 said: What would be the approach to removing this stuff, if possible? Acetone? The photos in one of the original posts in this thread went over some stuff, but the links to said photos are long gone, so I can't compare. DO NOT USE ACETONE FOR THIS PROJECT! If you apply acetone to those numbers and letters, they will bleed all over the place! I use acetone on everything twill and glue related, but the last time I tried removing a vinyl patch, the color from the vinyl bled everywhere. Fortunately, the Jersey wasn't worth too much. I recommend trying heat and being very, very, VERY careful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Committed Posted September 11, 2016 Report Share Posted September 11, 2016 28 minutes ago, Dr_Puck said: I just have to say that de-stitching a plate and numbers is the most time consuming process ever. My hand is cramped up like a mofo. Get comfortable and find your groove with the angle of the seam ripper and it goes smoother. I usually sit at a desk or on my couch with a pillow in my lap. The key for me is just finding the angle where I can pop 5-10 sets of stitches in one fell swoop. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
furiousd Posted September 11, 2016 Report Share Posted September 11, 2016 (edited) 23 minutes ago, Dr_Puck said: However, I'm not sure how to address the discoloration under the old numbers. No glue residue or other holes, just a slightly faded tone of red compared to the rest of the jersey. White or black jersey? Or red jersey, and the color is different? Material? (Or just post a pic...) Edited September 11, 2016 by furiousd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PensJerseys Posted September 11, 2016 Report Share Posted September 11, 2016 With an ironing or a wash the outline will be gone. I usually iron and then wash in a washing machine just to clean the whole thing while it's free of the lettering kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfitz804 Posted September 11, 2016 Report Share Posted September 11, 2016 (edited) Yeah that is pretty clean. I wash, then iron right out of the washing machine (wet fabric plus heat equals extra steam, that's my theory). Also, 11 is arguably the easiest double digit number to cover, so you'll end up just fine. Edited September 11, 2016 by mfitz804 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
furiousd Posted September 11, 2016 Report Share Posted September 11, 2016 I'm sure it's mind-numbing for a doctor such as yourself, but it's fun for the rest of us.* If you still see some color difference after washing and ironing, it might still be glue residue. I've found that mild leftover glue doesn't necessarily feel different than the bare fabric. Acetone would probably be your move then. *No it's not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfitz804 Posted September 11, 2016 Report Share Posted September 11, 2016 Just now, furiousd said: I'm sure it's mind-numbing for a doctor such as yourself, but it's fun for the rest of us.* If you still see some color difference after washing and ironing, it might still be glue residue. I've found that mild leftover glue doesn't necessarily feel different than the bare fabric. Acetone would probably be your move then. *No it's not. I actually don't mind the process, it's a nice little task you can focus on and put everything else aside. In terms of the actual thread cutting, I never understand why people take so long, I can basically knock it out in 45 minutes to an hour depending on who customized it. I usually leave the cleaning of glue residue to EPS so I can't comment on that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PensJerseys Posted September 11, 2016 Report Share Posted September 11, 2016 A dull seam ripper can really bog you down. That, and I've had some jerseys where the person who customized them had their thread tension so tight that the thread basically squeezed any glue below the lettering into the thread - threading was then way too tight to quickly zip through in a straight run, and it was partially glued on top of it. Some are so easy, others can be literal hell to strip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfitz804 Posted September 12, 2016 Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 26 minutes ago, blurryhaze312 said: A dull seam ripper can really bog you down. That, and I've had some jerseys where the person who customized them had their thread tension so tight that the thread basically squeezed any glue below the lettering into the thread - threading was then way too tight to quickly zip through in a straight run, and it was partially glued on top of it. Some are so easy, others can be literal hell to strip. Exactly, that's why I prefer doing EPS's jerseys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfitz804 Posted September 12, 2016 Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 23 minutes ago, Dr_Puck said: 45 minutes?!?! It took me one college football game yesterday and six quarters of NFL games today. I still have two shoulder numbers to go. I do have an unusually high amount f finger dexterity from playing guitar for so long, may have helped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMLFAN Posted September 12, 2016 Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 33 minutes ago, Dr_Puck said: 45 minutes?!?! It took me one college football game yesterday and six quarters of NFL games today. I still have two shoulder numbers to go. Are you taking out one stitch at a time? On top of the twill just run the seam ripper along the threads. Same here, doesn't take more than an hour Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfitz804 Posted September 12, 2016 Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 3 minutes ago, Dr_Puck said: I'm also not a surgeon, this was my first project of this nature and I was paranoid about creating new holes. I just can't wait for Keener to work his magic now. As I said, it gets easier. My first one took a couple hours until I got the rhythm down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfitz804 Posted September 12, 2016 Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 Regardless of experience, the corners always remain the hardest in my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
furiousd Posted September 12, 2016 Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 I've gotten a lot faster than I used to be, but I doubt I could complete one in under an hour if I had to take off the nameplate, then remove the letters from the plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.