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How To STRIP A JERSEY 101


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14 minutes ago, furiousd said:

Holy crap, that's expensive. Have you considered getting a machine and doing it yourself? It's pretty easy.

I don't pay them to do replicas, but I did get the price quote once. They don't charge any differently if its just sewing down an existing patch or sewing a new loose patch on, if I recall.

I do pay for the NHL shield, $6.50 is fine so that I don't have to do it, plus they are thick and I imagine hard to do for someone who has never sewn more than a button. 

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1 hour ago, mfitz804 said:

Yes they will do that. I believe its $12-15 per crest and $6.50 for smaller patches, generally speaking. Depending on the jersey, it can be costly (one crest, one CCM logo, two shoulder patches, you're already at $31.50 if $12 is correct)

I have been having them sew down the NHL Shields on my 2.0's also, it keeps the edges from peeling and/or being pointy like they are. And its a minimal change I'm fine with making on a non-game worn even if its not 100% on ice authentic. 

 

Yeesh. I'd be looking at at least an additional $81 for my latest order. I think I'll pass.

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The older pointy ones are already sewn down.  The newer Lextra ones are heat-pressed only, but they seem stuck down pretty good.  I don't imagine they would peel off under normal usage.

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7 minutes ago, LAK74 said:

The older pointy ones are already sewn down.  The newer Lextra ones are heat-pressed only, but they seem stuck down pretty good.  I don't imagine they would peel off under normal usage.

I don't sew the Lextra ones, just the older ones.

And yes, they are sewn, but not at the edges. The edges can (and in my experience, do) still peel up to the point where they are sewn. Case in point, here's a brand new with tags 2.0, this is a view with the collar bent forward to expose the top of the shield; its already separated. 

 

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4 minutes ago, Dr_Puck said:

Yes, Virginia... There is such a thing as a 'dumb question.'

When I strip off a name, I just do the letters and leave the nameplate, right? 

No, you strip the plate and leave the letters. If you intend to re-use the nameplate, or if soneone sewed the letters through the plate AND the jersey, then you take the letters off individually. 

Proper order of things is name sewn to plate, plate sewn to jersey. Name should not be sewn to jersey. So leaving the plate on is incorrect, and it will also be the wrong size unless the new name is the same number of letters, or its one of those jerseys that uses a shoulder to shoulder plate regardless of length. Don't think any NHL teams have that though. 

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Yeah, unless the letters are stitched through both the plate and the jersey, just remove the plate. Even if you don't intend to reuse the plate material, hold on to it, especially if it's Edge or a hard to find color. Someone will be looking for it in the future.

Edited by furiousd
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Also, sometimes it's easier to rip the backing stitch instead of the top stitch. You can skip every second or third stitch and just pull the loose backing thread along. I mainly only do that when I'm going to reuse the letters, though. If the letters are going in the trash, I just use them as a backstop and bulldoze through the top stitch.

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What would be the approach to removing this stuff, if possible?  Acetone?  The photos in one of the original posts in this thread went over some stuff, but the links to said photos are long gone, so I can't compare.

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20160910_140653_zpsll7hszyz.jpg

Edited by blurryhaze312
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Just now, Dr_Puck said:

I just have to say that de-stitching a plate and numbers is the most time consuming process ever. My hand is cramped up like a mofo.

It gets easier the more you do it, honestly. I'm easily twice as fast as I was when I started, I've done somewhere around 8-10. 

I'm moving away from it, unless I can find crazy good deals that I wouldn't mind keeping as is in the event I try to strip and it doesn't come clean.

My favorites have been sale priced, EPS done Devils game issueds. They generally come pretty clean, and whatever residue is left, EPS gets right off when they are being re-customized. 

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5 hours ago, blurryhaze312 said:

What would be the approach to removing this stuff, if possible?  Acetone?  The photos in one of the original posts in this thread went over some stuff, but the links to said photos are long gone, so I can't compare.

 

DO NOT USE ACETONE FOR THIS PROJECT!

If you apply acetone to those numbers and letters, they will bleed all over the place! I use acetone on everything twill and glue related, but the last time I tried removing a vinyl patch, the color from the vinyl bled everywhere. Fortunately, the Jersey wasn't worth too much. 

I recommend trying heat and being very, very, VERY careful. 

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28 minutes ago, Dr_Puck said:

I just have to say that de-stitching a plate and numbers is the most time consuming process ever. My hand is cramped up like a mofo.

Get comfortable and find your groove with the angle of the seam ripper and it goes smoother. I usually sit at a desk or on my couch with a pillow in my lap. The key for me is just finding the angle where I can pop 5-10 sets of stitches in one fell swoop. 

Good luck!

image.jpeg

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23 minutes ago, Dr_Puck said:

 

However, I'm not sure how to address the discoloration under the old numbers. No glue residue or other holes, just a slightly faded tone of red compared to the rest of the jersey.

White or black jersey?  Or red jersey, and the color is different? Material? (Or just post a pic...)

Edited by furiousd
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Yeah  that is pretty clean. I wash, then iron right out of the washing machine (wet fabric plus heat equals extra steam, that's my theory).

Also, 11 is arguably the easiest double digit number to cover, so you'll end up just fine. 

Edited by mfitz804
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I'm sure it's mind-numbing for a doctor such as yourself, but it's fun for the rest of us.*

If you still see some color difference after washing and ironing, it might still be glue residue. I've found that mild leftover glue doesn't necessarily feel different than the bare fabric. Acetone would probably be your move then.

 

*No it's not.

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Just now, furiousd said:

I'm sure it's mind-numbing for a doctor such as yourself, but it's fun for the rest of us.*

If you still see some color difference after washing and ironing, it might still be glue residue. I've found that mild leftover glue doesn't necessarily feel different than the bare fabric. Acetone would probably be your move then.

 

*No it's not.

I actually don't mind the process, it's a nice little task you can focus on and put everything else aside. In terms of the actual thread cutting, I never understand why people take so long, I can basically knock it out in 45 minutes to an hour depending on who customized it.

I usually leave the cleaning of glue residue to EPS so I can't comment on that. 

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A dull seam ripper can really bog you down.  That, and I've had some jerseys where the person who customized them had their thread tension so tight that the thread basically squeezed any glue below the lettering into the thread - threading was then way too tight to quickly zip through in a straight run, and it was partially glued on top of it.

Some are so easy, others can be literal hell to strip.

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26 minutes ago, blurryhaze312 said:

A dull seam ripper can really bog you down.  That, and I've had some jerseys where the person who customized them had their thread tension so tight that the thread basically squeezed any glue below the lettering into the thread - threading was then way too tight to quickly zip through in a straight run, and it was partially glued on top of it.

Some are so easy, others can be literal hell to strip.

Exactly, that's why I prefer doing EPS's jerseys. 

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23 minutes ago, Dr_Puck said:

45 minutes?!?! It took me one college football game yesterday and six quarters of NFL games today. I still have two shoulder numbers to go.

I do have an unusually high amount f finger dexterity from playing guitar for so long, may have helped. 

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33 minutes ago, Dr_Puck said:

45 minutes?!?! It took me one college football game yesterday and six quarters of NFL games today. I still have two shoulder numbers to go.

Are you taking out one stitch at a time?  On top of the twill just run the seam ripper along the threads.  Same here, doesn't take more than an hour 

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3 minutes ago, Dr_Puck said:

I'm also not a surgeon, this was my first project of this nature and I was paranoid about creating new holes. I just can't wait for Keener to work his magic now.

As I said, it gets easier. My first one took a couple hours until I got the rhythm down. 

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