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How To STRIP A JERSEY 101


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4 hours ago, artificialintuition said:

I'm not sure if PE will want me to remove none, just the nameplate & 3's, or everything. I suspect they might want me to remove everything but home that maybe they won't make me touch the 6s given i was their customization in the first place. This is game-issued, not used, so maybe it is cleaner.

It's not the 35% sale @jsh139 mentioned, but it is 20% off.

 

If you go this route, I'd probably just take the whole kit off.  You never know if there will be minor differences in the twill or sewing.  Plus, they'll probably charge you the same either way. 

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30 minutes ago, furiousd said:

If you go this route, I'd probably just take the whole kit off.  You never know if there will be minor differences in the twill or sewing.  Plus, they'll probably charge you the same either way. 

Got an email this morning. I had asked PE which route they'd like for me to go. 

They said to leave it all on--they do this all the time and are very good at it, and that it won't be a problem. 

They also said to send in the jersey with the residue for them to try to get it off. (Standard answer = If we can't get it off we can suggest a cover-up.)

 

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3 hours ago, mfitz804 said:

In my experience, it’s far less likely to see heavy residue from a nameplate, basically every one I’ve ever done has come off like you described. 

Thanks. The other one came off SO easy (it also appeared that the nameplate on mine was sewn with lighter thread and wider stitching than the #s). Since it was my first I didn't know if this was the norm. 

I can actually see plenty of residue on the back of the nameplate itself but none was left on the jersey (none!). On the other hand, I don't see any residue on the numbers themselves, but enough on the jersey.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Above question still stands, but I also have a question regarding name plate removal.

 

I picked up a reebok 2.0 practice jersey (not the 3.0) that has a nameplate attached. The rear is EDGE material, not airknit and the name plate must have been pressed down into the jersey before sewing because you can't lift up the center section the way you can with a crest. Is there something special that's needed to remove a name plate without ruining the material?

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23 minutes ago, mdwsta4 said:

Above question still stands, but I also have a question regarding name plate removal.

I picked up a reebok 2.0 practice jersey (not the 3.0) that has a nameplate attached. The rear is EDGE material, not airknit and the name plate must have been pressed down into the jersey before sewing because you can't lift up the center section the way you can with a crest. Is there something special that's needed to remove a name plate without ruining the material?

I just stripped a 2.0 where the nameplate was pretty glued/pressed on. I had to remove all the stitching and slowly pull up from the corners to get it started. Luckily it came off fine but left some residue which I need to clean off still. Would heating it up first with an iron help loosen the glue? 

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First attempt at stripping a jersey, and I would like some feedback on what to do next, keep going, or stop where I am at and just have the one number I have now removed put back on? I am taking my MIC Adidas Sedin jersey and want to turn it into a #6 Boeser jersey. By looking at how the jersey looks now with the one #3 removed, am I in good shape to to keep going with this one, or should I stop now and have another #3 reattached? Sorry if this a dumb question, first time doing this, and don't want to mess up this beauty of a jersey. At this point, would that residue that is there where the #3 was just come off with my hand held steamer, or would I need to get the Goo B Gone or something like that to proceed?

Adidas Jersey 1.jpeg

Adidas Jersey 2.jpeg

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I’m not an expert at glue removal so I’ll keave that to others. But how does the material look after the strip? 

You’re the first guy I’ve seen stripping one, so I’m very curious as to how it went. A close-up of the area where the 3 was removed would be awesome as well.

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Looks like a little residue acetone will take care off.  Lots of posts on here about what technique to use with acetone.  

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22 hours ago, TheBZ said:

I just stripped a 2.0 where the nameplate was pretty glued/pressed on. I had to remove all the stitching and slowly pull up from the corners to get it started. Luckily it came off fine but left some residue which I need to clean off still. Would heating it up first with an iron help loosen the glue? 

I have found that a little heat from an iron will definitely loosen the adhesive, but it tends to end up leaving more residue on the jersey for some reason.  I had better results using a hair dryer and peeling with the air flowing over the twill.

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Acetone and a dry cleaning will make it look like new. That’s what I’ve done to countless jerseys I’ve stripped and they come out practically mint. 

Edited by thebiggoalie
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30 minutes ago, jsh139 said:

I have found that a little heat from an iron will definitely loosen the adhesive, but it tends to end up leaving more residue on the jersey for some reason.  I had better results using a hair dryer and peeling with the air flowing over the twill.

Oooh good idea.

27 minutes ago, thebiggoalie said:

Acetone and a dry cleaning will make it look like new. That’s what I’ve done to countless jerseys I’ve stripped and they come out practically mint. 

I've used acetone once and had great results as well, though I didn't have to get off any really gluey spots.

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Finished the jersey up as best as I could. There is still a faint outline where the back numbers and name bar were, but the side numbers and the Captain’s C both look clean. I used both goof off and Acetone to try and clean up the back, but this was as best as I could get it. Any suggestions to make it a bit cleaner, or does this appear to be as good as it will get?

AB4918DF-7EAE-4CE2-A4A0-DE14997791C7.jpeg

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2 minutes ago, furiousd said:

Light steam iron will relax the fabric and reduce the outlines. I find it helps me locate glue I may have missed.

I don’t have an iron, but I have a handheld steamer, and I’ve used that on it a couple of times. Maybe I’ll let it sit for a while, let it dry completely from the wash, then try again. Can’t hurt I guess....

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On 2018-01-12 at 5:02 PM, furiousd said:

Light steam iron will relax the fabric and reduce the outlines. I find it helps me locate glue I may have missed.

Thanks for the tip. Steamed it with the hand held a few times and voila, came out looking great. The 33 is very faint, I can only really see it because I know it was there.  Taking it in on Monday to have Boeser customization done. 

 

Adidas MIC Canucks Home Jersey

 

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On 1/16/2018 at 3:12 PM, furiousd said:

Your pickup post reminded me of this question.  How does it not just pluck off, maybe with the help of a little heat or solvent? 

I'll try applying a blow dryer to it. This last little bit just wants to be a pain.

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I’ve got a white Panarin jersey from Cool Hockey I was looking to strip. Anyone have any experience with stripping Cool Hockey jerseys? I was worried because it’s the first time I’m stripping a jersey and it’s white with black/red numbers. Thanks

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  • 2 weeks later...

So.... new problem. Has anyone encountered a crest that is completely glued down? I posted in the recent pick ups thread about a 3.0 practice jersey I intended to strip. Unfortunately, every inch of the crest appears to be glued down. I've tried blasting it with steam and an iron hoping to loosen the glue up enough to be able to peel it away, but no go. 

 

You can see the air knit of the jersey through the crest in this image

1517843574779-vi.jpg

 

Any suggestions? Or would anyone care to make a few bucks and strip it for me? 

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Acetone the back of the crest, it will break down the glue, start on the inside of the jersey directly behind the crest..  You are going to destroy the crest, but since you are trying to remove it anyway, you probably don't care.  It's going to take some time, but it will loosen up.  Once you can get a edge of the crest up, start using the acetone to directly on the patch right where it meets the jersey.  And be patient, it will work, but it will take time.

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1 hour ago, spudrock512 said:

Acetone the back of the crest, it will break down the glue, start on the inside of the jersey directly behind the crest..  You are going to destroy the crest, but since you are trying to remove it anyway, you probably don't care.  It's going to take some time, but it will loosen up.  Once you can get a edge of the crest up, start using the acetone to directly on the patch right where it meets the jersey.  And be patient, it will work, but it will take time.

I've beaten some pretty tough glue using this method.  Keep a steady pull on the crest and use the acetone rag as a wedge between the crest and jersey.  Just don't force it and let the acetone do the work.

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2 hours ago, spudrock512 said:

Acetone the back of the crest, it will break down the glue, start on the inside of the jersey directly behind the crest..  You are going to destroy the crest, but since you are trying to remove it anyway, you probably don't care.  It's going to take some time, but it will loosen up.  Once you can get a edge of the crest up, start using the acetone to directly on the patch right where it meets the jersey.  And be patient, it will work, but it will take time.

 

11 minutes ago, furiousd said:

I've beaten some pretty tough glue using this method.  Keep a steady pull on the crest and use the acetone rag as a wedge between the crest and jersey.  Just don't force it and let the acetone do the work.

 

Acetone is basically nail polish remover, right? So I just dump it all over the back of the crest and let is soak in? How long should I let it soak? 

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1 minute ago, mdwsta4 said:

Acetone is basically nail polish remover, right? So I just dump it all over the back of the crest and let is soak in? How long should I let it soak? 

Never having done this, but having followed the use of acetone on this website, I do not believe the acetone content of commercially available nail polish remover is sufficient to do what you need it to do; you have to get pure acetone from the hardware store. 

But double check that first, as I said, I have never used it. 

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1 minute ago, mfitz804 said:

Never having done this, but having followed the use of acetone on this website, I do not believe the acetone content of commercially available nail polish remover is sufficient to do what you need it to do; you have to get pure acetone from the hardware store. 

But double check that first, as I said, I have never used it. 

Yes, pure acetone from the hardware store is the way to go.

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