slimcutta

How To STRIP A JERSEY 101

535 posts in this topic

7 hours ago, TheKevinShow said:

Premiers have their place. I don't begrudge people who collect them. I think they're crap but if you want to collect them, more power to you. Hell, the majority of my collection is made up of pre-lockout replicas.

People can collect anything they want, but pre-lockout replicas were multiple times over better quality than Premiers. 

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3 hours ago, mfitz804 said:

People can collect anything they want, but pre-lockout replicas were multiple times over better quality than Premiers. 

Indeed they are.

I'm wondering if, with all of the replicas I've sent to EPS, I should have asked them to sew down the logos and shoulder patches. I'm sure that's something they can do.

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22 minutes ago, TheKevinShow said:

Indeed they are.

I'm wondering if, with all of the replicas I've sent to EPS, I should have asked them to sew down the logos and shoulder patches. I'm sure that's something they can do.

Yes they will do that. I believe its $12-15 per crest and $6.50 for smaller patches, generally speaking. Depending on the jersey, it can be costly (one crest, one CCM logo, two shoulder patches, you're already at $31.50 if $12 is correct)

I have been having them sew down the NHL Shields on my 2.0's also, it keeps the edges from peeling and/or being pointy like they are. And its a minimal change I'm fine with making on a non-game worn even if its not 100% on ice authentic. 

 

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10 minutes ago, mfitz804 said:

Yes they will do that. I believe its $12-15 per crest and $6.50 for smaller patches, generally speaking. Depending on the jersey, it can be costly (one crest, one CCM logo, two shoulder patches, you're already at $31.50 if $12 is correct

Holy crap, that's expensive. Have you considered getting a machine and doing it yourself? It's pretty easy.

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14 minutes ago, furiousd said:

Holy crap, that's expensive. Have you considered getting a machine and doing it yourself? It's pretty easy.

I don't pay them to do replicas, but I did get the price quote once. They don't charge any differently if its just sewing down an existing patch or sewing a new loose patch on, if I recall.

I do pay for the NHL shield, $6.50 is fine so that I don't have to do it, plus they are thick and I imagine hard to do for someone who has never sewn more than a button. 

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If I didn't already have a machine, I doubt I would buy one just to do patches.  An extra $31 per jersey if I were doing replicas - that would be a different story.

Are 2.0 shields only glued down?  I thought they were sewn, but maybe I've never looked to see for sure.

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1 hour ago, mfitz804 said:

Yes they will do that. I believe its $12-15 per crest and $6.50 for smaller patches, generally speaking. Depending on the jersey, it can be costly (one crest, one CCM logo, two shoulder patches, you're already at $31.50 if $12 is correct)

I have been having them sew down the NHL Shields on my 2.0's also, it keeps the edges from peeling and/or being pointy like they are. And its a minimal change I'm fine with making on a non-game worn even if its not 100% on ice authentic. 

 

Yeesh. I'd be looking at at least an additional $81 for my latest order. I think I'll pass.

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The older pointy ones are already sewn down.  The newer Lextra ones are heat-pressed only, but they seem stuck down pretty good.  I don't imagine they would peel off under normal usage.

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7 minutes ago, LAK74 said:

The older pointy ones are already sewn down.  The newer Lextra ones are heat-pressed only, but they seem stuck down pretty good.  I don't imagine they would peel off under normal usage.

I don't sew the Lextra ones, just the older ones.

And yes, they are sewn, but not at the edges. The edges can (and in my experience, do) still peel up to the point where they are sewn. Case in point, here's a brand new with tags 2.0, this is a view with the collar bent forward to expose the top of the shield; its already separated. 

 

CD798BF0-0084-40BF-B983-1308BF05C0AE_zps

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Yes, Virginia... There is such a thing as a 'dumb question.'

When I strip off a name, I just do the letters and leave the nameplate, right? 

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4 minutes ago, Dr_Puck said:

Yes, Virginia... There is such a thing as a 'dumb question.'

When I strip off a name, I just do the letters and leave the nameplate, right? 

No, you strip the plate and leave the letters. If you intend to re-use the nameplate, or if soneone sewed the letters through the plate AND the jersey, then you take the letters off individually. 

Proper order of things is name sewn to plate, plate sewn to jersey. Name should not be sewn to jersey. So leaving the plate on is incorrect, and it will also be the wrong size unless the new name is the same number of letters, or its one of those jerseys that uses a shoulder to shoulder plate regardless of length. Don't think any NHL teams have that though. 

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Yeah, unless the letters are stitched through both the plate and the jersey, just remove the plate. Even if you don't intend to reuse the plate material, hold on to it, especially if it's Edge or a hard to find color. Someone will be looking for it in the future.

Edited by furiousd
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Thanks guys. It took me 20 minutes to remove one letter; removing the plate makes more sense and will be a time saver. It's a Binghamton Senators jersey, with that distinct red of theirs. The player whose name is coming off is two letters shorter than the player who is being put on. When I send it in for customization, I will send in the stripped nameplate (with me taking the nameplate off first before I take the letters off the plate). When I send it off to have it customized, I will just ask for the nameplate to be trimmed.

 

 

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Also, sometimes it's easier to rip the backing stitch instead of the top stitch. You can skip every second or third stitch and just pull the loose backing thread along. I mainly only do that when I'm going to reuse the letters, though. If the letters are going in the trash, I just use them as a backstop and bulldoze through the top stitch.

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I am fairly certain the letters are going in the trash, like the numbers. My first strip job, I feel like I am marking a major milestone in the hobby. Granted I'm not panini pressing or cutting out my own numbers but this is a first. 

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49 minutes ago, Dr_Puck said:

Granted I'm not panini pressing or cutting out my own numbers but this is a first. 

Yet. 

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What would be the approach to removing this stuff, if possible?  Acetone?  The photos in one of the original posts in this thread went over some stuff, but the links to said photos are long gone, so I can't compare.

20160910_140630_zpsaodg5ih1.jpg

20160910_140653_zpsll7hszyz.jpg

Edited by blurryhaze312
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I just have to say that de-stitching a plate and numbers is the most time consuming process ever. My hand is cramped up like a mofo.

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Just now, Dr_Puck said:

I just have to say that de-stitching a plate and numbers is the most time consuming process ever. My hand is cramped up like a mofo.

It gets easier the more you do it, honestly. I'm easily twice as fast as I was when I started, I've done somewhere around 8-10. 

I'm moving away from it, unless I can find crazy good deals that I wouldn't mind keeping as is in the event I try to strip and it doesn't come clean.

My favorites have been sale priced, EPS done Devils game issueds. They generally come pretty clean, and whatever residue is left, EPS gets right off when they are being re-customized. 

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I made one rookie mistake: I pulled open a hole at the top of the nameplate. The good thing is that it's in the center of the jersey and can be covered up. 

However, I'm not sure how to address the discoloration under the old numbers. No glue residue or other holes, just a slightly faded tone of red compared to the rest of the jersey.

This has been a slow process between doing the actual stripping and asking for help here. The good thing is that I initially had no intention of keeping this jersey. Once Keener does up the customization though, it will make a nice permanent-ish addition to my Binghamton Senators collection.

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5 hours ago, blurryhaze312 said:

What would be the approach to removing this stuff, if possible?  Acetone?  The photos in one of the original posts in this thread went over some stuff, but the links to said photos are long gone, so I can't compare.

 

DO NOT USE ACETONE FOR THIS PROJECT!

If you apply acetone to those numbers and letters, they will bleed all over the place! I use acetone on everything twill and glue related, but the last time I tried removing a vinyl patch, the color from the vinyl bled everywhere. Fortunately, the Jersey wasn't worth too much. 

I recommend trying heat and being very, very, VERY careful. 

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28 minutes ago, Dr_Puck said:

I just have to say that de-stitching a plate and numbers is the most time consuming process ever. My hand is cramped up like a mofo.

Get comfortable and find your groove with the angle of the seam ripper and it goes smoother. I usually sit at a desk or on my couch with a pillow in my lap. The key for me is just finding the angle where I can pop 5-10 sets of stitches in one fell swoop. 

Good luck!

image.jpeg

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23 minutes ago, Dr_Puck said:

 

However, I'm not sure how to address the discoloration under the old numbers. No glue residue or other holes, just a slightly faded tone of red compared to the rest of the jersey.

White or black jersey?  Or red jersey, and the color is different? Material? (Or just post a pic...)

Edited by furiousd
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The jersey is a number 11. One number is done and you can see in the second picture the outline. The third is the nameplate. Thoughts? Am I doing this right? rGnxmC4.jpgaIYEA2Z.jpgDyFzt8T.jpg

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With an ironing or a wash the outline will be gone.  I usually iron and then wash in a washing machine just to clean the whole thing while it's free of the lettering kit.

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