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whos good at cleaning up stripped jerseys?


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As for the white rangers former Matteau...no luck. I soaked that thing with acetone and it didn't even lighten the staining at all. Any ideas anyone?

I've tried goof-off, stain removers, all sorts of different cleaners, etc, and I've never found anything that works quite as well as acetone. Through my experience, if acetone didn't work, the jersey's permanently stained.

So I've seen people say to be careful with acetone... How careful? Is there a certain concentration that is best to use? I have a couple jerseys I'd like to clear up.

Just to reiterate - I've never experienced acetone doing anything to fabrics.

What is Acetone?

Acetone, also known as dimethyl ketone or propanone, is a clear, colorless liquid with a characteristic sweet odor that is volatile and highly flammable. It is completely miscible in water and most organic liquids. It is an excellent solvent for most organic chemicals. It is used for the manufacture of solvents and specialty chemicals, among others.

Acetone occurs naturally in plants, trees, volcanic gases, forest fires and as a breakdown product of body fat. It is also present in the exhaust gases of cars, tobacco smoke and landfills. Industrial processes contribute a greater amount of acetone to the environment than natural processes.

Acetone has been found to be very useful in removing stains in woolens. The following is a quick guide on how to remove stains using acetone:

Stain Removal Guide

It is not always necessary to resort to the use of a dry cleaner to remove a stain. There are several ways you can try at home to fade spots.

Be careful and use only the methods listed in the following guide to remove stains. In all cases, at the end of the cleaning process it is recommended that you always use clean water without soap to completely remove the stain. If the stain remains, contact a specialist.

Warning!

Acetone, turpentine, gasoline and similar products can create foam if used on quilted fabrics. Apply only small amounts of these products on the surface of the fabric. Before using any product, test it in an area less visible to observe the effect.

Cleaning furniture polish and wax on wool garments

Carefully clean the stain using a cloth dampened with acetone, turpentine or benzene. Then, use a pH neutral detergent diluted in warm water.

Spot cleaning for pen and highlighter stains on wool garments

Wipe the stain with domestic use alcohol. If the stain persists, use a cloth dampened with acetone, turpentine or benzene. Then, wash the affected area with a neutral pH detergent diluted in warm water.

Cleaning lipstick stains on wool garments

Carefully clean the stain using a cloth dampened with acetone, turpentine or benzene. Then, wash the affected area with a neutral pH detergent diluted in warm water.

Cleaning wax on wool garments

Cool the spot with ice cubes placed in a plastic bag, then scrape the hardened wax and remove the pieces. If necessary, place a paper towel over the wax and pass a hot iron over the fabric. If the stain remains, wipe with a cloth dampened with acetone, turpentine or benzene. Then, wash the affected area with a neutral pH detergent diluted in warm water.

Cleaning gum on wool garments

Cool the spot with ice cubes in a plastic bag then scrape the gum and remove the pieces. If the stain persists, try using acetone, turpentine or benzene. Then, wash the affected area with a neutral pH detergent diluted in warm water.

Cleaning food on wool garments

Use a pH neutral detergent diluted in warm water. If the stain persists, use more soap. You can increase the dose up to five times. Finally, use clean water without soap.

Cleaning nail polish on wool garments

Rub with nail polish remover. If the stain persists, use acetone, turpentine or benzene. Then, use a pH neutral detergent diluted in warm water.

Cleaning oil on wool garments

Carefully clean the stain using a cloth dampened with acetone, turpentine or benzene. Then, use a pH neutral detergent diluted in warm water using five times the normal amount of soap.

Other uses and applications of acetone

Acetone is not only used in cleaning fabric. Other uses include:

- Synthetic fibers

- Industrial solvents and mixtures

- Additives for plastics

- UV filter agents (e.g., sunscreen)

- Manufacture of catalysts (i.e., azo type)

- Manufacture of flavors and fragrances

- Synthesis of vitamins

- Synthesis of drugs

- Applications in cosmetics

- Adhesives based on polyurethane

I haven't tried many of these, but here's some info. I found online -

http://home.howstuff...l-tools-ga3.htm

Stain Removing Chemicals

The chemicals in this section ca­n help you get rid of those nasty household and laundry stains when properly used.­

Acetic Acid. A 10% solution of acetic acid can be purchased generically at pharmacies. (White vinegar is 5% acetic acid and can be used as a substitute for the stronger solution.) It is a clear fluid that can be used to remove stains on silk and wool. It must be diluted with 2 parts water for use on cotton and linen (a pretest is recommended). It should not be used on acetate. If acetic acid causes a color change, sponge the affected area with ammonia.

­

Acetone. Acetone can be purchased generically at pharmacies and hobby shops. A colorless liquid that smells like peppermint, it can be used on stains caused by substances such as fingernail polish or household cement. Although it will not damage either natural fibers or most synthetics, it should be pretested to make sure that dyed fabrics will not be harmed. It should not be used on fabrics containing acetate. Use only pure acetone on stains; although most nail polish removers contain acetone, the other ingredients included in these products can worsen stains. Caution: Acetone is flammable and evaporates rapidly, producing toxic fumes. When using acetone, work outside or in a well-ventilated place. Avoid inhaling fumes. Store in a tightly capped container in a cool place.

Alcohol. Common isopropyl alcohol (70%), which can be purchased generically at drugstores, is sufficient for most stain-removal jobs that call for alcohol, although the stronger denatured alcohol (90%) can also be used. Be sure you don't buy alcohol with added color or fragrance. Alcohol will fade some dyes; pretest before using it. Alcohol will damage acetate, tri acetate, modacrylic, and acrylic fibers. If you must use it on fibers in the acetate family, dilute the alcohol with two parts water. Caution: Alcohol is poisonous and flammable. Observe all label precautions.

Ammonia. For stain removal, purchase plain household ammonia without added color or fragrance. It is sold at grocery stores. Because ammonia affects some dyes, always pretest on a hidden corner of the stained article. To restore color changed by ammonia, rinse the affected area with water and apply a few drops of white vinegar. Rinse with clear water again. Ammonia damages silk and wool; if you must use it on these fibers, dilute it with an equal amount of water and use as sparingly as possible. Caution: Ammonia is poisonous. Avoid inhaling its fumes. It will cause burns or irritation if it comes in contact with the skin or eyes. Observe all label precautions. Never mix ammonia with chlorine bleach, as this will release chloramine, a highly toxic substance.

Amyl Acetate. Buy chemically pure amyl acetate (banana oil) for use in stain removal. It is sometimes available at drugstores or may perhaps be ordered from them. It is safe for use on fibers that could be damaged by acetone, but it should not be allowed to come in contact with plastics or furniture finishes. Caution: Amyl acetate is poisonous and flammable. Avoid contact with the skin and inhaling the vapors.

Coconut Oil. Coconut oil is sold in drug and health food stores. It is used in the preparation of a dry spotter, which is used to remove many kinds of stains. If you cannot obtain coconut oil, you may substitute mineral oil which is almost as effective.

Glycerine. Glycerine is sold generically in pharmacies. It is used in the preparation of the wet spotter, which is used to remove many kinds of stains.

Oxalic Acid. Effective in treating ink and rust stains, oxalic acid crystals may be found in pharmacies or special-ordered from them. Before using the crystals, you must dissolve them in water (1 tablespoon crystals to 1 cup warm water). You may also be able to purchase liquid oxalic acid at hardware stores, where it is sometimes sold as wood bleach. Pretest the solution on a hidden corner before using it on the stain. Moisten the stained area with the solution. Allow to dry, then reapply, keeping the area moist until the stain is removed. Be sure all traces of the solution are rinsed out. Caution: Oxalic acid is poisonous. Avoid all contact with the skin and eyes and wear rubber gloves and other protective clothing when working with it.

Sodium Thiosulfate. Sometimes available in crystal form at drugstores and photo supply houses, sodium thiosulfate is also known as photographic "hypo" or fixer. Although considered safe for all fibers and harmless to dyes, it should be­ tested on an inconspicuous area of fabric before use. Handle carefully, as sodium thiosulfate can cause irritation to the eyes, skin, lungs and digestive tract.

Turpentine. Turpentine is commonly found in paint and hardware stores and in art supply houses. Most often used as a thinner for oil-base paints, it is effective on paint and grease stains, but it must be used carefully. Caution: Turpentine is flammable and poisonous. Observe all label precautions.

Vinegar. Only white vinegar should be used for stain removal. Cider and wine vinegar have color that can leave a stain. Vinegar can be purchased at grocery stores and pharmacies. It contains a 5% acetic acid solution and should be diluted if you must use it on cotton or linen. Vinegar is safe for all other colorfast fibers, but can change the color of some dyes, so always test its effects on an inconspicuous area first. If a dye changes color, rinse the affected area with water and add a few drops of ammonia. Rinse thoroughly with water again.

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Thanks for all the info slim. I'm about to give up on this thing. I'll try one more time tomorrow, this time completely soaking the thing in acetone. I am pretty happy the blue one came clean though... it's destined to become a Paul Broten. don't imagine there's many other broten rangers jerseys floating around.

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Thanks for all the info slim. I'm about to give up on this thing. I'll try one more time tomorrow, this time completely soaking the thing in acetone.

I don't think that's gonna do any good...if it didn't come off just rubbing it on, it's not gonna do anything to soak it. Acetone is pretty powerful stuff, and as long as it's something that it'll work on, it'll work right away. I wouldn't waste your time....maybe try something new/different, though?

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I've used bleach with success on a white Rangers mesh before, but that was for fairly small spots not more than an inch in size. The discoloration on yours covers a pretty wide area so it would take a lot of work, and you really would need to take care that the bleach didn't reach the colored stripes. Sounds kinda risky, but maybe you could try a small spot first?

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that's the same thoughts I was having. did you just rinse yours thoroughly after each application? I figure it's useless as is so what do I have to lose right?

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You have to rinse pretty thoroughly; that stuff stinks, lol! If the acetone didn't work, then I wouldn't get your hopes up too much for the bleach, but like you said, what do you have to lose?

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  • 2 weeks later...

just an update... bleach did absolutely nothing at all. I guess it's time to give up on this thing.

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