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DEALS AND STEALS


sungod661

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Well played.

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I don't think there's any manufacturing defect; it just looks like someone washed the hell out of that jersey. The crest gets soft and flexible, and the adhesive on the top red layer separates from the black layer it was formerly pressed to, and now you've got air pockets or even complete separation of the 2 twill layers in some areas. Ironing might help a little but since the red layer is detached from the black one, you're still going to get bubbling and the red layer won't lie flat anymore. Same thing happens to twill numbers on gamers separating from the back of the jersey after so many washes.

At that price I am tempted to grab it for nameplates. not that I know how to cut up a jersey for nameplates. But one of you guys with skill should do it, could get a few hard to find white Ultrafil nameplates out of it.

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If anyone else likes bigger sizes, this is a pretty nice ASG jersey at a decent price. I don't need it but at that price its tempting. I paid much more for my Elias.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-PETER-FORSBERG-NHL-ALL-STAR-JERSEY-CCM-SIZE-56-AUTHENTIC-JERSEY-/301591590323?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item46384275b3

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Only thing is Forsberg didn't play in that All-Star game.

Second time I have done that. Luckily both were ASG jerseys I posted here rather than buying.

He was only on the 2001 team in that jersey, the ASG patch would have to be changed and the 2000 patch removed.

Still might be worth it to someone I guess...

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Also from the 2000 ASG to the 2001 ASG, the CCM logo moves from the bottom right back hem to the top neck area where we see the Reebok logo nowadays

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mfitz, sorry I hope you didn't take that the wrong way. Just wanted to clarify, I appreciate you posting deals/steals though, if I didn't have his '01 I would've maybe picked that up!

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mfitz, sorry I hope you didn't take that the wrong way. Just wanted to clarify, I appreciate you posting deals/steals though, if I didn't have his '01 I would've maybe picked that up!

Nah, just feel dumb when I don't notice/check stuff like that. My issue, you're all good. I actually appreciate anything that expands my knowledge.

I reviewed the 2001 All Star rosters, and there was no Devil on the World Team. I might have bought/stripped if there were.

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So I took a shot on it for $30, we'll see how it looks. If it's decent, one of my smaller family members will get a jersey. If not, I guess just let me know if anybody needs a white ultrafil nameplate or 5.

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If you can make the nameplates, you may double your money. Nameplates, extract the fight strap, strip off the crest...be interesting to see what you could get.

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If you can make the nameplates, you may double your money. Nameplates, extract the fight strap, strip off the crest...be interesting to see what you could get.

That was my thought process. Wasn't gonna let that one go unsold again for that price. Plus I won $50 on a stupid scratch off ticket at a gas station this morning, which unfortunately means I likely used up all my good luck for the next 6-8 years so the jersey will probably be crap.

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That was my thought process. Wasn't gonna let that one go unsold again for that price. Plus I won $50 on a stupid scratch off ticket at a gas station this morning, which unfortunately means I likely used up all my good luck for the next 6-8 years so the jersey will probably be crap.

I'll be interested to hear how it winds up. I was thinking of doing it myself, but I doubted my ability to cut the plates, so I decided not to.

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Alrighty, I have decided to try out EPS and take advantage of their discount before it disappears. I picked three jerseys, my Starter mesh Rangers Liberty jersey (to be Richter), my Rangers Winter Classic (Lundqvist) and my Caps Winter Classic (Ovechkin). What advice can you guys give me as to what I should put in the instructions? I want the jerseys to look good, obviously, but they don't need to be 100% on ice accurate. If I don't add any instructions other than name and number will EPS do a close enough to on ice authentic job?

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They do the Caps on ice jerseys so you will have no issue with that one.

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First of all, which year is your Starter Liberty, 1996/97 or 1997/98? The letter fonts are quite different between the 2 years. If you do not specify particular details, EPS will probably give you letters that look close to the 1996/97 font. They will probably give you the wrong numbers as well- most likely they will give you the stubbier numbers which were used on blue Liberties throughout the 2000's, which look quite different from those used from 1996-98.

This is a very complicated font which is very difficult to get right.

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First of all, which year is your Starter Liberty, 1996/97 or 1997/98? The letter fonts are quite different between the 2 years. If you do not specify particular details, EPS will probably give you letters that look close to the 1996/97 font. They will probably give you the wrong numbers as well- most likely they will give you the stubbier numbers which were used on blue Liberties throughout the 2000's, which look quite different from those used from 1996-98.

This is a very complicated font which is very difficult to get right.

Shoot. I've had the jersey for so long I don't remember the season its from. What is the difference(s) between a 96/97 and 97/98 jersey? Would I be better to send the Liberty to the Rangers team customizer?

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96/97 has 3 neck tags on the retail jersey. The hem logo next to the NHL shield has the S-Star with the word "Starter" underneath. The 97/98 has only 2 neck tags, and the hem logo is just the S-Star with no "Starter" underneath it.

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You probably have a better shot at accuracy by going with Gerry Cosby, who was the team customizer during that time period, but unless you give them a lot of info they can make mistakes too. Not to mention it will cost nearly twice as much as EPS.

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The numbers 3 & 5 for the Starter Liberty should look like the ones in these photos, which are of 1996/97 gamers.

image_zpsz3yeo95a.jpg

image_zpsxqzkqoyw.jpg

What you will get from EPS will probably look like these:

image_zpshic4m3u7.jpg

image_zpsvnybrq7t.jpg

Compared to the Starter fonts, these have gray dropshadows which are a bit wider, and the gaps and notches in the numbers are smaller than the ones on the Starters. The white layer is thicker and more prominent. The 5 has a square (right angle) cut on the left side whereas the Starter has a diagonal cut.

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96/97 has 3 neck tags on the retail jersey. The hem logo next to the NHL shield has the S-Star with the word "Starter" underneath. The 97/98 has only 2 neck tags, and the hem logo is just the S-Star with no "Starter" underneath it.

And the winner is 97/98. This particular jersey is a team issue I got from MeiGray way back when.

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Wow. Those Liberty jerseys are great. Being from CT, I especially love the PJ Stock. I think I'll keep living with mine being blank and pick a different jersey to send to EPS. Any thoughts on instructions I might need for the Thrashers baby blue Reebok 6100?

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Just had this to finish up the discussion on the Liberty:

The 1997/98 letter font has a unique "thin" look to it- the red and white layers are very skinny and it gives the letters a paler look to them. It's the only season in which the letters looked that way. I don't have comparison photos for Richter's name, but I do for Gretzky:

1996/97:

image_zps65x2v8tf.jpg[/url

1997/98:

[url=http://s1111.photobucket.com/user/dhshimizu/media/image_zpsdoi3hnk6.jpg.html]image_zpsdoi3hnk6.jpg

The style of the "G" is different, as well as the diagonal cuts in the "Z" between the 2 years. However, I don't think there were any really significant differences in the letters in Richter's name between the 2 years, except for the obvious difference in the letter thickness.

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