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sungod661

DEALS AND STEALS

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I thought it just looked like it's very wrinkled, like it wasn't stored properly. But looking at it again it goes look a little off. The red part seems like it's loose or puffed up a little, which I can't see happening with twill.

That being said, not sure if anyone would fake a size 44, but anything is possible I suppose.

The top point of the lower tail is what's getting me. It just doesn't look normal. It's almost like the red layer was attached without being completely lined up with the black.

I doubt it's a fake, just looks like either a manufacturing defect or a lot of wear, or something like that.

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I don't think there's any manufacturing defect; it just looks like someone washed the hell out of that jersey. The crest gets soft and flexible, and the adhesive on the top red layer separates from the black layer it was formerly pressed to, and now you've got air pockets or even complete separation of the 2 twill layers in some areas. Ironing might help a little but since the red layer is detached from the black one, you're still going to get bubbling and the red layer won't lie flat anymore. Same thing happens to twill numbers on gamers separating from the back of the jersey after so many washes.

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(..) it just looks like someone washed the hell out of that jersey.

Is that even possible with a Devils jersey?

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Is that even possible with a Devils jersey?

Nice lol

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Well played.

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Bite me, gentleman. And I ain't washing first ;)

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I don't think there's any manufacturing defect; it just looks like someone washed the hell out of that jersey. The crest gets soft and flexible, and the adhesive on the top red layer separates from the black layer it was formerly pressed to, and now you've got air pockets or even complete separation of the 2 twill layers in some areas. Ironing might help a little but since the red layer is detached from the black one, you're still going to get bubbling and the red layer won't lie flat anymore. Same thing happens to twill numbers on gamers separating from the back of the jersey after so many washes.

At that price I am tempted to grab it for nameplates. not that I know how to cut up a jersey for nameplates. But one of you guys with skill should do it, could get a few hard to find white Ultrafil nameplates out of it.

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If anyone else likes bigger sizes, this is a pretty nice ASG jersey at a decent price. I don't need it but at that price its tempting. I paid much more for my Elias.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-PETER-FORSBERG-NHL-ALL-STAR-JERSEY-CCM-SIZE-56-AUTHENTIC-JERSEY-/301591590323?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item46384275b3

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Only thing is Forsberg didn't play in that All-Star game.

Second time I have done that. Luckily both were ASG jerseys I posted here rather than buying.

He was only on the 2001 team in that jersey, the ASG patch would have to be changed and the 2000 patch removed.

Still might be worth it to someone I guess...

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Also from the 2000 ASG to the 2001 ASG, the CCM logo moves from the bottom right back hem to the top neck area where we see the Reebok logo nowadays

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OK it has to be stripped. My bad, carry on boys.

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mfitz, sorry I hope you didn't take that the wrong way. Just wanted to clarify, I appreciate you posting deals/steals though, if I didn't have his '01 I would've maybe picked that up!

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mfitz, sorry I hope you didn't take that the wrong way. Just wanted to clarify, I appreciate you posting deals/steals though, if I didn't have his '01 I would've maybe picked that up!

Nah, just feel dumb when I don't notice/check stuff like that. My issue, you're all good. I actually appreciate anything that expands my knowledge.

I reviewed the 2001 All Star rosters, and there was no Devil on the World Team. I might have bought/stripped if there were.

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So I took a shot on it for $30, we'll see how it looks. If it's decent, one of my smaller family members will get a jersey. If not, I guess just let me know if anybody needs a white ultrafil nameplate or 5.

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If you can make the nameplates, you may double your money. Nameplates, extract the fight strap, strip off the crest...be interesting to see what you could get.

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If you can make the nameplates, you may double your money. Nameplates, extract the fight strap, strip off the crest...be interesting to see what you could get.

That was my thought process. Wasn't gonna let that one go unsold again for that price. Plus I won $50 on a stupid scratch off ticket at a gas station this morning, which unfortunately means I likely used up all my good luck for the next 6-8 years so the jersey will probably be crap.

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That was my thought process. Wasn't gonna let that one go unsold again for that price. Plus I won $50 on a stupid scratch off ticket at a gas station this morning, which unfortunately means I likely used up all my good luck for the next 6-8 years so the jersey will probably be crap.

I'll be interested to hear how it winds up. I was thinking of doing it myself, but I doubted my ability to cut the plates, so I decided not to.

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Alrighty, I have decided to try out EPS and take advantage of their discount before it disappears. I picked three jerseys, my Starter mesh Rangers Liberty jersey (to be Richter), my Rangers Winter Classic (Lundqvist) and my Caps Winter Classic (Ovechkin). What advice can you guys give me as to what I should put in the instructions? I want the jerseys to look good, obviously, but they don't need to be 100% on ice accurate. If I don't add any instructions other than name and number will EPS do a close enough to on ice authentic job?

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They do the Caps on ice jerseys so you will have no issue with that one.

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They do the Caps on ice jerseys so you will have no issue with that one.

Good to know for the next Caps jersey I want done up. Thank you.

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First of all, which year is your Starter Liberty, 1996/97 or 1997/98? The letter fonts are quite different between the 2 years. If you do not specify particular details, EPS will probably give you letters that look close to the 1996/97 font. They will probably give you the wrong numbers as well- most likely they will give you the stubbier numbers which were used on blue Liberties throughout the 2000's, which look quite different from those used from 1996-98.

This is a very complicated font which is very difficult to get right.

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First of all, which year is your Starter Liberty, 1996/97 or 1997/98? The letter fonts are quite different between the 2 years. If you do not specify particular details, EPS will probably give you letters that look close to the 1996/97 font. They will probably give you the wrong numbers as well- most likely they will give you the stubbier numbers which were used on blue Liberties throughout the 2000's, which look quite different from those used from 1996-98.

This is a very complicated font which is very difficult to get right.

Shoot. I've had the jersey for so long I don't remember the season its from. What is the difference(s) between a 96/97 and 97/98 jersey? Would I be better to send the Liberty to the Rangers team customizer?

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96/97 has 3 neck tags on the retail jersey. The hem logo next to the NHL shield has the S-Star with the word "Starter" underneath. The 97/98 has only 2 neck tags, and the hem logo is just the S-Star with no "Starter" underneath it.

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You probably have a better shot at accuracy by going with Gerry Cosby, who was the team customizer during that time period, but unless you give them a lot of info they can make mistakes too. Not to mention it will cost nearly twice as much as EPS.

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