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How to TACKLE STAINS ON A WHITE JERSEY


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Finding authentics from the 1980s can be a real daunting task. Retails weren't very common back then, and I'm pretty sure that certain teams didn't start selling to the public until the late 80s.

Focusing my collection on the 80s, but not wanting to spend a ton of $$$ on big name gamers, my only other option is to find no-name gamer or game issued jerseys, and often these jerseys will exhibit some defects that need repairing, plus then I have to consider stripping, cleaning, and re-customizing the jersey. It means time, money, some elbow grease, and no guarantees. But despite the gamble, the ends can certainly justify the means.

Recently I stumbled upon a nice "game-worn" 1985-87 Blues jersey (some of you may have seen it on ebay) that had a few stains (to say the least) -

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The seller presented it as a gamer, stating he bought it directly from the team in the mid 80s, but he doesn't have proof (no LOA's back then), and despite the fact the jersey is full of blood stain's...

Brian was known to chuck 'em -

http://youtu.be/DJIXd_mr2ws

...there aren't any stick/puck marks. So either Brian jumped on the ice with a nice new jersey, chucked the knuckles within the first 5 minutes of a game, changed jerseys, and this one never saw the ice again...or it isn't his blood.

Without some DNA testing, or a photo-match, I have no choice but to chalk it up to a game-issued that could have been worn pre-season, or by someone else after it left the Blues organization.

So do I buy it?

Even if it's not a gamer, I figured it's still a very rare jersey, and considering the logo, name, and numbers are all sceen-print, for its age it's in pretty amazing condition.

I've seen no-name gamers of this style go for $1000 on jersey auction sites, and I know that a Sutter (with proof) could easily go for $1300-1800 (if not more). I also know that if I were to find a retail version in this condition, I'd probably be paying the same price, if not more.

SOLD!

Now what?

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I started by taking some hydrogen peroxide and dabbing a tiny amount on to a q-tip. I rubbed the q-tip on a blood-stained area on the hem, on the inside of both, a white and a colored part of the jersey to make sure there were no ill-effects. All systems go, I start cleaning:

Here's the front of the jersey before -

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and after a few rubbs -

2050946900105778501S200x200Q85.jpg

Same with the left cuff -

2223017060105778501S200x200Q85.jpg

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2358946670105778501S200x200Q85.jpg

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***NOTE - when I clean a jersey, I always make sure I have a sink or bathtub with clean water in it, as well as some laundry detergent on 'stand-by' just in case the jersey reacts to whatever I'm using to clean it.

For this project, I was very careful to work quick. Every time I completed one area, I would take the jersey and (at minimum) wet/rinse the area, ensuring I allowed no peroxide to sit and dry.

It's a good thing too, because the washcloth I used certainly reacted (I didn't wash/rinse it at all, and it changed color about 10 minutes after I was done with the jersey). I also used a few of them during the entire process.

2372668470105778501S200x200Q85.jpg

After removing as much blood as possible, I took the entire jersey and submerged in a tub of cold water, with a tiny amount of liquid laundry detergent. I proceeded to hand-wash the jersey, gently scubbing the area I'd just cleaned with the peroxide. I then took it out, emptied the tub, refilled it with clean water, rinsed the jersey, and then hung it to dry.

I went back periodically to check, and as it dried, it revealed a few stains under the blood (yellow), that hadn't come out with the peroxide. I waited until it was completely dry, and then I turned to the goof-off 2 -

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I've read some horror stories re goof off, but I've only experienced using goof-off 2. It's low odor (almost none), non-toxic (yay planet earth) and thankfully I've had 100% success with both, cleaning stains from jerseys, as well as removing numbers and the adhesive that's left behind when removing numbers.

For the peroxide, I simply dabbed a bit and removed it with a dry cloth, but with the Goof-off 2, I grabbed a super soft electric toothbrush, and gentle rubbed until everything turned white (some times adding a bit more goof-off 2), and then absorbed as much as possible using a dry cloth.

I repeated the hand-wash/rinse process in the bathtub that I'd done a few days ago, and hung the jersey.

Sure enough, everything came out super clean and bright (even in the colored area).

Here's the sleeve end -

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and the front of the jersey -

2939430890105778501S425x425Q85.jpg

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End result?

An authentic, super rare, super clean 1985-87 Brian Sutter St-Louis Blues Captain's jersey that's currently dripping dry from my shower curtain -

2584524830105778501S600x600Q85.jpg

To answer your question, Mike, the numbers look real good, but they do show their age. The logo and 'SUTTER' are mint, but the numbers have some peeling (no cracking though :)) at some of the corners -

2016422530105778501S200x200Q85.jpg

2769995940105778501S200x200Q85.jpg

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The seller presented it as a gamer, stating he bought it directly from the team in the mid 80s, but he doesn't have proof (no LOA's back then), and despite the fact the jersey is full of blood stain's...

...there aren't any stick/puck marks. So either Brian jumped on the ice with a nice new jersey, chucked the knuckles within the first 5 minutes of a game, changed jerseys, and this one never saw the ice again, or it isn't his blood.

Without some DNA testing, or a photo-match, I have no choice but to chalk it up to a game-issued that could have been worn pre-season, or by someone else after it left the Blues organization.

It's entirely possible that this was a gamer. Fight wear is entirely different from regular wear, so while a jersey of a regular player may have a huge number of stick/puck marks and pilling around the bottom of the crest, a jersey worn by someone who was primarily a fighter will normally have tears and repairs around the neck, exterior pilling around the neck, top of the crest, and the shoulders, and stretching of the fight strap.

As for whether or not a fresh jersey was very quickly destroyed by extensive bleeding, it's very possible. Teams at the time wore whites at home, so someone who bled extensively on their white jersey could have it quickly changed. If the bled-on jersey had staining that simply would not come out with normal laundering, it's possible that it would have been simply written off with the new one taking its place.

The other thing is that blood doesn't follow any type of pattern. It's possible that blood on a jersey belonged to another player who was fought with. It's possible that the player was knocked dizzy and bled onto the jersey in a weird fashion while lying on the ice (I have one like this). It's possible that the player was cut badly, dropped his head, and bled almost entirely onto the front and onto the crest. And so on. Besides that, when it comes to blood, the rule is "if it dries, it dies". Any pathogen is dead very quickly after the blood dries, the notable exception being hepatitis C (which lasts a few days but no more).

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It's entirely possible that this was a gamer.

Besides that, when it comes to blood, the rule is "if it dries, it dies". Any pathogen is dead very quickly after the blood dries, the notable exception being hepatitis C (which lasts a few days but no more).

Trust me, I thought long and hard at the idea of someone sending me a photo-matched pic after the fact, but I didn't buy it to sell it. I bought it for my collection, and I like it better clean.

As for the DNA, I also pulled out some hairs that looked Sutter-esc......no Hep C

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Fantastic! Well done. That was a great step-by-step process. Well written and good pictures. It should be pinned.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just throwing my 2 cents in here and not necessarily about this beautiful Blues jersey... I've been contracted to remove plenty of autographs from gamers over the years. This process calls for a lot of work with several different cleaners. They get washed (just like teams do "EVERY NIGHT") over and over and the blood stains stay put. Blood does not come out easy. It's very very difficult to get out. You have to use bleach. Just ask a trainer. I have purchased quite a few gamers with "blood stains" . After a quick toss in the wash on the delicate cycle with only water the blood "disappears" and looks white as new. Coke or root beer looks just like blood on a jersey. If you've every been in a locker room after a game the players basically toss them on the floor. They basically get used as a foot rug sometimes.

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They get washed over and over and the blood stains stay put. Blood does not come out easy. It's very very difficult to get out. You have to use bleach. Just ask a trainer. I have purchased quite a few gamers with "blood stains" . After a quick toss in the wash on the delicate cycle with only water the blood "disappears" and looks white as new.

Not quite sure what you're saying here....blood is super hard to get out...unless you give it a quick toss in the wash with only water and it disappears??

Anyways, the peroxide took the blood out fairly easily.

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I think he's saying that we might think something is blood, but if it comes out easy in a wash it's more than likely not blood, and probably something like soda instead.

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I'm pretty confident that it was blood on the blues jersey....regardless, the peroxide took out the "soda" quite well, and as we all know from having scraped our elbows and knees as a kid, hydrogene peroxide not only disinfects, but it also takes care of "soda" stains.

:thumbsup:

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hello, new around here, but one little tid bit to add.

There is a product called Orvus / Quilters Soap that is a soap instead of a detergent.

It works wonders on jerseys and will remove most stains that standard detergents will not. It is also extremely safe for fabrics.

Another thing is that it will remove odors from jerseys like nothing else.

Picture framer by trade - We know all kinds of secrets odd problems:)

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End result?

An authentic, super rare, super clean 1985-87 Brian Sutter St-Louis Blues Captain's jersey that's currently dripping dry from my shower curtain -

2584524830105778501S600x600Q85.jpg

To answer your question, Mike, the numbers look real good, but they do show their age. The logo and 'SUTTER' are mint, but the numbers have some peeling (no cracking though :)) at some of the corners -

2016422530105778501S200x200Q85.jpg

2769995940105778501S200x200Q85.jpg

Hello I am new to this forum, but I was wondering if you might be able to help me out? I have a blank replica jersey from this era and would like to letter it as legit as possible (as far as correct material and process that it was done). I was wondering if the heat pressed numbers are layered on top of each other, or were they kiss-cut numbers. On the one picture it looks as if you they were kiss-cut, but I was not sure if the red layer just cracked and pulled up with the gold. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated!!!!

Thanks!!

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  • 4 weeks later...

What about getting signatures out of white Ultrafil? There is a blank I'd love to snag but its signed by a player I'd rather not make it into.

The counter-agent to Sharpie is rubbing alcohol. Some people will say to use hair-spray, aftershave, or other similar products, but it is the alcohol in these products that make them work. Hydrogen peroxide should work wonders as well.

Did you know that OxiClean is simply hydrogen peroxide and baking soda? FOOD FOR THOUGHT!!!

Before you start, a few things to note -

Hydrogen peroxide is a natural bleaching agent which is less likely to discolor clothing than standard sodium hypochlorite bleach, BUT

* No matter what you use to clean, always test it in an inconspicuous area to confirm it won't damage or change the colour of the material (we already know the peroxide was safe, short term, on all sections of my Blues ultrafil)

* Don't let any cleaning product sit long without washing it out...you want it to clean, not to eat away at the material. Any agent with bleaching properties is likely to have long term effects if it's left to dry.

* Always avoid heat. Hot water or a dryer will help the ink set in.

* Always make sure you put a towel or rag underneath the area to be cleaned so that it doesn't bleed through and create a whole new stain elsewhere.

Much like my directions above -

Apply the alcohol (or whatever you decide to use) to the sig.

Using a *slightly* damp rag on top, gently rub, and firmly press and pat the ink out, always change the area of the rag (as other areas soak away the ink), or using a new rag if/when needed. Add more alcohol as needed as the rag soaks it away.

As this method will dilute and 'cause the ink to spread, be careful not to spread the stain too much. It's not really too big a deal, it just means you'll have a larger area to clean the 2nd and 3rd time around. So after a few applications, if you find the ink is spreading a lot, stop and wash the area clean thoroughly, WAIT FOR IT TO DRY, and start over again.

It might take a few rounds, but it'll come cleaner each time so be persistent.

As noted in my initial write-up, it took a bit of elbow grease, and a few rounds to clean, but my Blues came out super clean, and there's NO sign remaining that there were even stains in the first place :)

Sound like a plan?

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I just received a jersey that was going to be my project jersey (stripping it and making it a Forsberg jersey) but the jersey is really yellow(it was originally white) and I already tried washing it 2 times on cold cold with Tide Bleach delicate and I have to say, the jersey is still really yellow. Is this a lost cause or do you think if I send this to the dry cleaner, it can be semi white again?.

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  • 3 weeks later...

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