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How To STRIP A JERSEY 101


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http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2055119.m570.l1313.TR11.TRC1.A0.H0.Xmy+little+steamer&_nkw=my+little+steamer&_sacat=0

Buy a steamer - faster and easdier than an iron, you don't run the risk of ruining your jersey, and gets rid of creases and makes those little holes disappear, easy peasy.

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  • 4 weeks later...
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Just won this for a smashing price ($39), but I really don't like the idea of someone else's name being on there. Obviously I won't know until est. Friday whether the letters and numbers are glued as well as stitched, but what are some tools/tips I should take into consideration in preparation?

The day the pictures on page 1 get re-uploaded is the greatest day of all. Slim, do you not still have those somewhere on your PC?

$_57.JPG

Edited by zooeyperry10
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The day the pictures on page 1 get re-uploaded is the greatest day of all. Slim, do you not still have those somewhere on your PC?

Somewhere...they went down with the webshots sinking ship.

I'm swamped as is, but I'll see if I can find 'em and udate this sucka some time soon. Long overdue.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Going to attempt my first full strip using this thread as my guide. The initial post by slim really tells me most of what I need, I was just curious if there was any advice specific to EDGE 2.0's that might be helpful.

First step is I need to buy a seam ripper, of course.

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Going to attempt my first full strip using this thread as my guide. The initial post by slim really tells me most of what I need, I was just curious if there was any advice specific to EDGE 2.0's that might be helpful.

First step is I need to buy a seam ripper, of course.

Just go slowly, and take your time. Make sure you remove all the stitching before you attempt pulling on the numbers at all. Don't force it if they fight you.

There's not much difference between a 2.0 and an airknit jersey. I have stripped almost every material jersey so far, and have about a 95% success rate of reusing that jersey later.

Currently working on another project myself.

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Just go slowly, and take your time. Make sure you remove all the stitching before you attempt pulling on the numbers at all. Don't force it if they fight you.

There's not much difference between a 2.0 and an airknit jersey. I have stripped almost every material jersey so far, and have about a 95% success rate of reusing that jersey later.

Currently working on another project myself.

So 5% of the time it can't be used? That's scary. I am just going to work slow and if I get freaked or encounter difficulty, I'll send it to EPS to finish.

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So 5% of the time it can't be used? That's scary. I am just going to work slow and if I get freaked or encounter difficulty, I'll send it to EPS to finish.

I meant that I could strip it completely clean 95% of the time. The other 5 were not mint looking, but a new customization job would cover it just as well.

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Ok, that sounds better. I had EPS do a previous one and it came out perfect. Both jerseys had been customized by them so I assume it either came clean because they knew what they were doing or because it was done the right way to begin with.

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Out of curiosity, has anyone attempted to strip a Pre-Edge Nashville Predators Mustard third jersey? I'm debating of making a koho into a Reebok since they don't come up too often. I haven't had any real issues tacking the koho tags off other jerseys but I know the fabric on the Preds jerseys are essentially made up of two layers. a dark navy underneath and then the mustard yellow mesh layer on top.

Just trying to debate if I should investe in a jersey with the chances that it might be a challenge to alter.

Thanks!

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Yes. The mesh material is extremely flimsy and snags VERY easily. You might do some significant damage to the neck. It also doesn't help that you're trying to use a smaller patch to cover up a larger area.

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I stripped my first two on Friday and wanted to post about my results, from the perspective of a first timer, in case it helps anyone trying to decide whether to attempt it themselves.

1. Get the right tools. I bought a small seam ripper at the local drug store, and it worked ok. I also ordered one with a longer handle, like the size of a plastic spoon handle, on eBay. That one arrived in between the first and second jersey, and I found the long handled one much easier to work with.

2. Follow the advice in this thread. Especially about going slowly and cutting toward the piece you are removing rather than toward the jersey. If you do that, and you have even moderate hand-eye coordination, you can easily do it without damaging the jersey if you take your time. The more you do, you feel your skill level increasing and it feels like you could go faster. The couple times I put the tip of the ripper through the jersey was from starting to go to fast (I should add, it did in fact go right through and come right out with no damage, so even if you are a little sloppy, you'll be ok).

3. Sometimes there is a lot of loose thread hanging around and it gets harder to see what you are doing. Gently pull the threads out periodically so they aren't in the way. Sometimes they wouldn't come out with ordinary pressure (like picking lint off your shirt), and in that case, I didn't force them, instead I cut them with a sharp scissor to get them out of the way.

4. If you have problems with your eyesight, it can be hard to pick up where the threads are, as they are typically against a background of the same color. If you wear reading glasses, you'll probably want them on.

5. No matter how neat you are, little bits of thread will be EVERYWHERE. Your wife will not be happy if you do this in the living room moments before company arrives. Clean up after yourselves boys, happy wife, happy life.

6. I did not attempt glue removal where it was necessary. I am sending them out to EPS and I will let them clean them and pay their cleaning fee.

All in all, the way I see it, EPS charges $35 to strip, so I saved $70 by doing it myself. That means the fee for customizing one of them is covered by my savings, and I am happy with that.

So if you are wondering if you can do it, from my perspective the answer is you can, unless you have really bad eyesight, really bad arthritis in your hands, or no coordination. Otherwise you can do it yourself and save a few bucks.

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  • 4 weeks later...

How well do Ultrafil authentic jerseys strip? Found one on eBay I have been looking for, but its not the player I want. It may be rare enough to make it worth it if it will come reasonably clean. The new name and numbers should mostly cover the old, but I was just curious what to expect.

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All the ultrafils I've stripped came out just fine. They didn't seem any more difficult than any other jersey (airknit, mesh or Edge) I've stripped.

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All the ultrafils I've stripped came out just fine. They didn't seem any more difficult than any other jersey (airknit, mesh or Edge) I've stripped.

Thanks for the input. It's priced a little high but I've been looking for it a while. Maybe worth a shot.

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I know I've said it before but I will put it here again for those who have yet to see it:

When it comes to stripping ANY jersey, it ALL DEPENDS ON HOW THE KIT WAS APPLIED. Era doesn't matter, material doesn't matter. There is absolutely NO rhyme or reason to it. If the letterer used a lot of heat and pressure, it's not coming off. If they didn't, chances are good that it will come off clean.

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I know I've said it before but I will put it here again for those who have yet to see it:

When it comes to stripping ANY jersey, it ALL DEPENDS ON HOW THE KIT WAS APPLIED. Era doesn't matter, material doesn't matter. There is absolutely NO rhyme or reason to it. If the letterer used a lot of heat and pressure, it's not coming off. If they didn't, chances are good that it will come off clean.

This makes sense. The jersey in question is a Whalers done by Custom Crafted. I expect I'll be ok with how it was applied. Not sure if I can justify the $300 asking price for a jersey I'm going to strip, but size 56s don't come up often.

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Does anyone have any experience stripping Game-Issued Jerseys? Or would a Team-Customizer use too much heat/pressure to make a good strip possible (specifically Penguins Jerseys done by Pro Knitwear)? Been debating purchasing some cheap NWT Game-Issued Jerseys, stripping them and customizing them to my liking.

Edited by desmopilot
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I know I've said it before but I will put it here again for those who have yet to see it:

When it comes to stripping ANY jersey, it ALL DEPENDS ON HOW THE KIT WAS APPLIED. Era doesn't matter, material doesn't matter. There is absolutely NO rhyme or reason to it. If the letterer used a lot of heat and pressure, it's not coming off. If they didn't, chances are good that it will come off clean.

Does anyone have any experience stripping Game-Issued Jerseys? Or would a Team-Customizer use too much heat/pressure to make a good strip possible (specifically Penguins Jerseys done by Pro Knitwear)? Been debating purchasing some cheap NWT Game-Issued Jerseys, stripping them and customizing them to my liking.

Not much more to say about the subject.
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Not much more to say about the subject.

I just had Pro Knitwear strip a jersey that they lettered for me and had it re-customized.

Came out absolutely perfect, can't tell the old kit was on there.

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I just had Pro Knitwear strip a jersey that they lettered for me and had it re-customized.

Came out absolutely perfect, can't tell the old kit was on there.

Thanks for the reply! May I ask how much they charged and what their turn-around time was like?

Edited by desmopilot
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Thanks for the reply! May I ask how much they charged and what their turn-around time was like?

It was a week turnaround, $150 to strip and re-customize.

Was it expensive? Yes. Was it worth it? Also yes. I don't have the time to strip a jersey (full time MechE student) and PK is an hour away from me. Super friendly people.

ETA: If you want to know more, shoot me a PM to not clog up the thread.

Edited by PensFan77
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