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How To STRIP A JERSEY 101


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One other thing to consider, that is, if you don’t do your own stitching, is that even if you successfully get the original kit off the jersey, you still have to pay someone to apply and stitch it on to the new jersey.  This might take a big chunk out of whatever you save by not purchasing a new kit.

Only once have I ever removed a kit from a jersey and reapplied it to another one.  This is because the kit was originally applied to a replica, and later I found an authentic version of the same jersey.  I had ordered the customization for the replica myself, so I knew who made the kit and stitched it on, so I had a good idea about how easy it would be to strip the kit.  I recustomized the replica with another player, so that jersey was still of use to me.  The jersey with the recycled kit turned out really nicely, but I don’t think I’d deliberately buy a replica with an unknown customization history, just to reuse the kit.  It’s too risky.  If just one of the letters got torn or damaged during the stripping process (and I’ve had this happen before) I’d have to reorder a whole new kit anyway, plus I’d be out for how much I paid for the replica.

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1 hour ago, LAK74 said:

One other thing to consider, that is, if you don’t do your own stitching, is that even if you successfully get the original kit off the jersey, you still have to pay someone to apply and stitch it on to the new jersey.  This might take a big chunk out of whatever you save by not purchasing a new kit.

This is true. I think you would likely pay all or most of the savings to a tailor to sew on the kit, as they would likely charge you whatever they charge to sew a patch for each number (minimum of 3, max of 6 charges) and one for the nameplate. 

You might want to check the cost of the sewing if that is going to factor in. If you are doing it yourself, then go forth. 

 

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Hey, all:
I'm relatively new to the forum, though I have lurked for a bit. The level of knowledge here is impressive. I've read through this thread; unfortunately many of the linked images are now missing, so it can be hard for someone new to stripping a jersey to see examples of what is meant by "adhesive residue from stitching", etc.

I just spent the better part of my evening stripping a Flyers home Reebok Edge 2.0 jersey. I *think* the next call is acetone but wanted to see what everyone else thought before I set down that path.

FWIW, I removed 22/TOCCHET and am replacing with 68/JAGR. The nameplate came off without any hint of reside, which is great as the new material will not be as wide.

I removed one number on the back of the jersey and can see a light outline that is about 1/4" wide. It is definitely visible though not SO prominent on the orange material.

The sleeve number left a narrower outline (1/8"?), but it is notably darker; it stands out because the majority of it is on a white area of the sleeve.

Questions:
- Is this what is meant by adhesive residue?
- Are these the kind of stains likely to come out with acetone, a microfiber cloth, and some elbow grease, followed by a cold water wash?
- If that method fails, is it an option to send to EPS to see if they can do a better job? Do they do cleaning without customization if asked?

My plan was to get this to Philly Express for proper customization. I realize the 68 will cover a fair bit of the 22.

The nameplate and back number came off relatively quickly; the sleeve number took a much longer time to remove.

I'd love to get this out in the next few days -- either to Philly Express if successful or to EPS (I'm sending a Devils blank their way within the next 48h).

THANKS!

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Whenever you have dark colored twill pressed to a lighter colored jersey material, it’s common for some of the dark color to bleed and stain the jersey material.  This is not likely to come out unless you use a solvent like acetone.  On the sleeve, most of the jersey material is white airknit, which is fairly easy to clean with acetone.  The back of the jersey however, is orange stretch mesh, which might possibly be prone to bleeding and fading if you use too much acetone, so you should be very careful there.  The number 68 is going to cover a lot of the area formerly covered by the 22, so you may not have to go crazy trying to get every little bit of color out- I would concentrate mainly on the areas you think will still be exposed after the 68 is applied.

 

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I do not believe EPS offers cleaning without customization, but you could email them to ask. 

For the record, that residue does not look bad and I know EPS could get it out if they were so inclined. I’ll leave the home instructions to those who have done that. 

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This may sound a bit excessive, and fortunately I haven’t had to do this much, but in rare cases where I’m having a hard time removing residue/staining, and I happen to know that the numbers I’m removing are pretty accurate and the correct size, I find it helpful to cut out templates of the new numbers, to place over the area formerly occupied by the old numbers, to see which will be the most exposed areas that I have to concentrate on cleaning.

Find gamer pics with the numbers you want, and those you removed- for Flyers it’s easy, because there are a ton on the MeiGray site:

Flyers68Flyers62

Put a large piece of paper over the removed number and trace the outline of it in the shape of the new number you want.  You can tell where the notches and holes in the 6 (and by inference the 8) will be by looking at the picture of the 62 and 68 and seeing how the notches line up with each other.

Based on the original 22, you picked a pretty good number which matches the old one quite well.  On the 6, the only places that are going to be significantly exposed are the bottom 2 corners, and the area about halfway down the right side.  For the 8, you might not have to do anything.  You might be able to leave all the rest of the staining alone.  And like mfitz said, the staining doesn’t look bad at all anyway, and probably won’t be tough to remove.  But I still have found the template useful in a few cases, especially one time where I had a hole in the jersey back to deal with and I wasn’t sure if the new number would cover it.

 

 

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2 hours ago, LAK74 said:

This may sound a bit excessive, and fortunately I haven’t had to do this much, but in rare cases where I’m having a hard time removing residue/staining, and I happen to know that the numbers I’m removing are pretty accurate and the correct size, I find it helpful to cut out templates of the new numbers, to place over the area formerly occupied by the old numbers, to see which will be the most exposed areas that I have to concentrate on cleaning.

Find gamer pics with the numbers you want, and those you removed- for Flyers it’s easy, because there are a ton on the MeiGray site:

 

Put a large piece of paper over the removed number and trace the outline of it in the shape of the new number you want.  You can tell where the notches and holes in the 6 (and by inference the 8) will be by looking at the picture of the 62 and 68 and seeing how the notches line up with each other.

Based on the original 22, you picked a pretty good number which matches the old one quite well.  On the 6, the only places that are going to be significantly exposed are the bottom 2 corners, and the area about halfway down the right side.  For the 8, you might not have to do anything.  You might be able to leave all the rest of the staining alone.  And like mfitz said, the staining doesn’t look bad at all anyway, and probably won’t be tough to remove.  But I still have found the template useful in a few cases, especially one time where I had a hole in the jersey back to deal with and I wasn’t sure if the new number would cover it.

 

 

Excellent advice. 

Or just buy that Bardreau and swap the nameplate and you're done!

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2 hours ago, artificialintuition said:

Ya know....had I known about this...

Seriously though, is there any visual difference between the 15-16 Flyers jerseys and the 11-12 Jagr would have worn?

Both are Edge 2.0.

That I don't know, but one of our evil members from Philly will. 

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Same jerseys. Jagr wore an “A” for part of the season. You’d be modifying a gamer, so would be appropriate to remove the Meigray tagging. But for $190 plus the new nameplate that would be a pretty good price for an authentic Jagr. Shame you missed out on the leftover Edge authentics Meigray was selling. I think they were $150 for the home oranges. 

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5 hours ago, LAK74 said:

This may sound a bit excessive, and fortunately I haven’t had to do this much, but in rare cases where I’m having a hard time removing residue/staining, and I happen to know that the numbers I’m removing are pretty accurate and the correct size, I find it helpful to cut out templates of the new numbers, to place over the area formerly occupied by the old numbers, to see which will be the most exposed areas that I have to concentrate on cleaning.

Find gamer pics with the numbers you want, and those you removed- for Flyers it’s easy, because there are a ton on the MeiGray site:

Flyers68Flyers62

Put a large piece of paper over the removed number and trace the outline of it in the shape of the new number you want.  You can tell where the notches and holes in the 6 (and by inference the 8) will be by looking at the picture of the 62 and 68 and seeing how the notches line up with each other.

Based on the original 22, you picked a pretty good number which matches the old one quite well.  On the 6, the only places that are going to be significantly exposed are the bottom 2 corners, and the area about halfway down the right side.  For the 8, you might not have to do anything.  You might be able to leave all the rest of the staining alone.  And like mfitz said, the staining doesn’t look bad at all anyway, and probably won’t be tough to remove.  But I still have found the template useful in a few cases, especially one time where I had a hole in the jersey back to deal with and I wasn’t sure if the new number would cover it.

 

 

This is an amazing suggestion. That 6 offers more coverage than I imagined in my head. 

 

Still, some corners will be showing even with the 8. 

 

Rally appreciate this. 

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18 minutes ago, mfitz804 said:

That I don't know, but one of our evil members from Philly will. 

 

14 minutes ago, jsh139 said:

Same jerseys. Jagr wore an “A” for part of the season. You’d be modifying a gamer, so would be appropriate to remove the Meigray tagging. But for $190 plus the new nameplate that would be a pretty good price for an authentic Jagr. Shame you missed out on the leftover Edge authentics Meigray was selling. I think they were $150 for the home oranges. 

There you have it. 

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20 minutes ago, jsh139 said:

Same jerseys. Jagr wore an “A” for part of the season. You’d be modifying a gamer, so would be appropriate to remove the Meigray tagging. But for $190 plus the new nameplate that would be a pretty good price for an authentic Jagr. Shame you missed out on the leftover Edge authentics Meigray was selling. I think they were $150 for the home oranges. 

190?

i did a quick search on Meigray and saw $250. 

Also...I’m assuming this is a 58 at least or 60. I need a 52. 

This Edge 2.0 only cost me $100 so no complaints there. I’m OK putting in the work but the perfectionist in me wants to get out all that residue, and I don’t know if it will happen  

 

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23 minutes ago, jsh139 said:

Same jerseys. Jagr wore an “A” for part of the season. You’d be modifying a gamer, so would be appropriate to remove the Meigray tagging. But for $190 plus the new nameplate that would be a pretty good price for an authentic Jagr. Shame you missed out on the leftover Edge authentics Meigray was selling. I think they were $150 for the home oranges. 

And for the record I would absolutely remove that tag and never pass the modified one off as a gamer. However, if the sweaters did not change between 11-12 and 15-16 it would be good enough for my use. 

 

I have to fheck carefully when I’m home. I feel like a few small details such as lining of the collar may have changed. 

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11 minutes ago, artificialintuition said:

Still, some corners will be showing even with the 8. 

Duh.  I can’t believe I forgot about that.  Yes, it will be the same bottom 2 corners as with the 6.

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25 minutes ago, artificialintuition said:

190?

i did a quick search on Meigray and saw $250. 

Also...I’m assuming this is a 58 at least or 60. I need a 52. 

This Edge 2.0 only cost me $100 so no complaints there. I’m OK putting in the work but the perfectionist in me wants to get out all that residue, and I don’t know if it will happen  

 

I am 99.999% sure that will come out. I have had EPS get out much worse. The question, though, is what to do if EPS is not an option for you. 

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39 minutes ago, artificialintuition said:

190?

i did a quick search on Meigray and saw $250. 

Also...I’m assuming this is a 58 at least or 60. I need a 52. 

This Edge 2.0 only cost me $100 so no complaints there. I’m OK putting in the work but the perfectionist in me wants to get out all that residue, and I don’t know if it will happen  

 

There’s a 35% off sale going on until....tonight? I think. 

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Thanks to the folks who pointed me toward Meigray's sale and the fact that there's a #68 on the site. Amazingly, it's a smaller size (54 -- I feel like most gamers are larger sizes).

I want this one to wear and not display on a wall. I got very excited when I saw the 54, but I'm really a 52 in the Edge jerseys. It's the size I wear when actually playing, so it is definitely oversized without pads. 

The new Adizeros in a 52 fit me even better if just wearing around.

I'm really tempted to pull the trigger; I worry a 54 is just too big and will look silly. Any enablers out there? :)

I did come home today with Acetone and latex gloves. :)

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18 hours ago, LAK74 said:

This may sound a bit excessive, and fortunately I haven’t had to do this much, but in rare cases where I’m having a hard time removing residue/staining, and I happen to know that the numbers I’m removing are pretty accurate and the correct size, I find it helpful to cut out templates of the new numbers, to place over the area formerly occupied by the old numbers, to see which will be the most exposed areas that I have to concentrate on cleaning.

Find gamer pics with the numbers you want, and those you removed- for Flyers it’s easy, because there are a ton on the MeiGray site:

Flyers68Flyers62

Put a large piece of paper over the removed number and trace the outline of it in the shape of the new number you want.  You can tell where the notches and holes in the 6 (and by inference the 8) will be by looking at the picture of the 62 and 68 and seeing how the notches line up with each other.

Based on the original 22, you picked a pretty good number which matches the old one quite well.  On the 6, the only places that are going to be significantly exposed are the bottom 2 corners, and the area about halfway down the right side.  For the 8, you might not have to do anything.  You might be able to leave all the rest of the staining alone.  And like mfitz said, the staining doesn’t look bad at all anyway, and probably won’t be tough to remove.  But I still have found the template useful in a few cases, especially one time where I had a hole in the jersey back to deal with and I wasn’t sure if the new number would cover it.

 

 

Thanks to @LAK74and @jsh139 for tipping me off to explore this route. The 68 jersey was a really interesting idea (wrong size though) and the mention of a big sale gave me reason to think I could swing this financially.

I actually found a jersey that I think will work REALLY well:
* Flyers home - check
* 14/15 -- same as 11/12 (Edge 2.0, details look identical to my eye)
* #63 -- I may not have to strip the "6" (original customization was done by Philly Express, so...), and even if there is residue the "8" would cover the entirety of the 3
* IT'S MY SIZE! 

Risk: The nameplate is 6 letters vs the 4 I'd like to go with. My last one peeled off absolutely clean; this one may not.

I'm not sure if PE will want me to remove none, just the nameplate & 3's, or everything. I suspect they might want me to remove everything but home that maybe they won't make me touch the 6s given i was their customization in the first place. This is game-issued, not used, so maybe it is cleaner.

It's not the 35% sale @jsh139 mentioned, but it is 20% off.

 

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In my experience, it’s far less likely to see heavy residue from a nameplate, basically every one I’ve ever done has come off like you described. 

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