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How To STRIP A JERSEY 101

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I do not believe EPS offers cleaning without customization, but you could email them to ask. 

For the record, that residue does not look bad and I know EPS could get it out if they were so inclined. I’ll leave the home instructions to those who have done that. 

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This may sound a bit excessive, and fortunately I haven’t had to do this much, but in rare cases where I’m having a hard time removing residue/staining, and I happen to know that the numbers I’m removing are pretty accurate and the correct size, I find it helpful to cut out templates of the new numbers, to place over the area formerly occupied by the old numbers, to see which will be the most exposed areas that I have to concentrate on cleaning.

Find gamer pics with the numbers you want, and those you removed- for Flyers it’s easy, because there are a ton on the MeiGray site:

Flyers68Flyers62

Put a large piece of paper over the removed number and trace the outline of it in the shape of the new number you want.  You can tell where the notches and holes in the 6 (and by inference the 8) will be by looking at the picture of the 62 and 68 and seeing how the notches line up with each other.

Based on the original 22, you picked a pretty good number which matches the old one quite well.  On the 6, the only places that are going to be significantly exposed are the bottom 2 corners, and the area about halfway down the right side.  For the 8, you might not have to do anything.  You might be able to leave all the rest of the staining alone.  And like mfitz said, the staining doesn’t look bad at all anyway, and probably won’t be tough to remove.  But I still have found the template useful in a few cases, especially one time where I had a hole in the jersey back to deal with and I wasn’t sure if the new number would cover it.

 

 

Edited by LAK74

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2 hours ago, LAK74 said:

This may sound a bit excessive, and fortunately I haven’t had to do this much, but in rare cases where I’m having a hard time removing residue/staining, and I happen to know that the numbers I’m removing are pretty accurate and the correct size, I find it helpful to cut out templates of the new numbers, to place over the area formerly occupied by the old numbers, to see which will be the most exposed areas that I have to concentrate on cleaning.

Find gamer pics with the numbers you want, and those you removed- for Flyers it’s easy, because there are a ton on the MeiGray site:

 

Put a large piece of paper over the removed number and trace the outline of it in the shape of the new number you want.  You can tell where the notches and holes in the 6 (and by inference the 8) will be by looking at the picture of the 62 and 68 and seeing how the notches line up with each other.

Based on the original 22, you picked a pretty good number which matches the old one quite well.  On the 6, the only places that are going to be significantly exposed are the bottom 2 corners, and the area about halfway down the right side.  For the 8, you might not have to do anything.  You might be able to leave all the rest of the staining alone.  And like mfitz said, the staining doesn’t look bad at all anyway, and probably won’t be tough to remove.  But I still have found the template useful in a few cases, especially one time where I had a hole in the jersey back to deal with and I wasn’t sure if the new number would cover it.

 

 

Excellent advice. 

Or just buy that Bardreau and swap the nameplate and you're done!

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36 minutes ago, mfitz804 said:

Excellent advice. 

Or just buy that Bardreau and swap the nameplate and you're done!

Ya know....had I known about this...

Seriously though, is there any visual difference between the 15-16 Flyers jerseys and the 11-12 Jagr would have worn?

Both are Edge 2.0.

 

 

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2 hours ago, artificialintuition said:

Ya know....had I known about this...

Seriously though, is there any visual difference between the 15-16 Flyers jerseys and the 11-12 Jagr would have worn?

Both are Edge 2.0.

That I don't know, but one of our evil members from Philly will. 

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Same jerseys. Jagr wore an “A” for part of the season. You’d be modifying a gamer, so would be appropriate to remove the Meigray tagging. But for $190 plus the new nameplate that would be a pretty good price for an authentic Jagr. Shame you missed out on the leftover Edge authentics Meigray was selling. I think they were $150 for the home oranges. 

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5 hours ago, LAK74 said:

This may sound a bit excessive, and fortunately I haven’t had to do this much, but in rare cases where I’m having a hard time removing residue/staining, and I happen to know that the numbers I’m removing are pretty accurate and the correct size, I find it helpful to cut out templates of the new numbers, to place over the area formerly occupied by the old numbers, to see which will be the most exposed areas that I have to concentrate on cleaning.

Find gamer pics with the numbers you want, and those you removed- for Flyers it’s easy, because there are a ton on the MeiGray site:

Flyers68Flyers62

Put a large piece of paper over the removed number and trace the outline of it in the shape of the new number you want.  You can tell where the notches and holes in the 6 (and by inference the 8) will be by looking at the picture of the 62 and 68 and seeing how the notches line up with each other.

Based on the original 22, you picked a pretty good number which matches the old one quite well.  On the 6, the only places that are going to be significantly exposed are the bottom 2 corners, and the area about halfway down the right side.  For the 8, you might not have to do anything.  You might be able to leave all the rest of the staining alone.  And like mfitz said, the staining doesn’t look bad at all anyway, and probably won’t be tough to remove.  But I still have found the template useful in a few cases, especially one time where I had a hole in the jersey back to deal with and I wasn’t sure if the new number would cover it.

 

 

This is an amazing suggestion. That 6 offers more coverage than I imagined in my head. 

 

Still, some corners will be showing even with the 8. 

 

Rally appreciate this. 

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18 minutes ago, mfitz804 said:

That I don't know, but one of our evil members from Philly will. 

 

14 minutes ago, jsh139 said:

Same jerseys. Jagr wore an “A” for part of the season. You’d be modifying a gamer, so would be appropriate to remove the Meigray tagging. But for $190 plus the new nameplate that would be a pretty good price for an authentic Jagr. Shame you missed out on the leftover Edge authentics Meigray was selling. I think they were $150 for the home oranges. 

There you have it. 

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20 minutes ago, jsh139 said:

Same jerseys. Jagr wore an “A” for part of the season. You’d be modifying a gamer, so would be appropriate to remove the Meigray tagging. But for $190 plus the new nameplate that would be a pretty good price for an authentic Jagr. Shame you missed out on the leftover Edge authentics Meigray was selling. I think they were $150 for the home oranges. 

190?

i did a quick search on Meigray and saw $250. 

Also...I’m assuming this is a 58 at least or 60. I need a 52. 

This Edge 2.0 only cost me $100 so no complaints there. I’m OK putting in the work but the perfectionist in me wants to get out all that residue, and I don’t know if it will happen  

 

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23 minutes ago, jsh139 said:

Same jerseys. Jagr wore an “A” for part of the season. You’d be modifying a gamer, so would be appropriate to remove the Meigray tagging. But for $190 plus the new nameplate that would be a pretty good price for an authentic Jagr. Shame you missed out on the leftover Edge authentics Meigray was selling. I think they were $150 for the home oranges. 

And for the record I would absolutely remove that tag and never pass the modified one off as a gamer. However, if the sweaters did not change between 11-12 and 15-16 it would be good enough for my use. 

 

I have to fheck carefully when I’m home. I feel like a few small details such as lining of the collar may have changed. 

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11 minutes ago, artificialintuition said:

Still, some corners will be showing even with the 8. 

Duh.  I can’t believe I forgot about that.  Yes, it will be the same bottom 2 corners as with the 6.

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25 minutes ago, artificialintuition said:

190?

i did a quick search on Meigray and saw $250. 

Also...I’m assuming this is a 58 at least or 60. I need a 52. 

This Edge 2.0 only cost me $100 so no complaints there. I’m OK putting in the work but the perfectionist in me wants to get out all that residue, and I don’t know if it will happen  

 

I am 99.999% sure that will come out. I have had EPS get out much worse. The question, though, is what to do if EPS is not an option for you. 

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39 minutes ago, artificialintuition said:

190?

i did a quick search on Meigray and saw $250. 

Also...I’m assuming this is a 58 at least or 60. I need a 52. 

This Edge 2.0 only cost me $100 so no complaints there. I’m OK putting in the work but the perfectionist in me wants to get out all that residue, and I don’t know if it will happen  

 

There’s a 35% off sale going on until....tonight? I think. 

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Thanks to the folks who pointed me toward Meigray's sale and the fact that there's a #68 on the site. Amazingly, it's a smaller size (54 -- I feel like most gamers are larger sizes).

I want this one to wear and not display on a wall. I got very excited when I saw the 54, but I'm really a 52 in the Edge jerseys. It's the size I wear when actually playing, so it is definitely oversized without pads. 

The new Adizeros in a 52 fit me even better if just wearing around.

I'm really tempted to pull the trigger; I worry a 54 is just too big and will look silly. Any enablers out there? :)

I did come home today with Acetone and latex gloves. :)

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Pretty sure acetone dissolves latex...

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I never use gloves with acetone. Just a towel. But that’s probably foolish of me. 

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18 hours ago, LAK74 said:

This may sound a bit excessive, and fortunately I haven’t had to do this much, but in rare cases where I’m having a hard time removing residue/staining, and I happen to know that the numbers I’m removing are pretty accurate and the correct size, I find it helpful to cut out templates of the new numbers, to place over the area formerly occupied by the old numbers, to see which will be the most exposed areas that I have to concentrate on cleaning.

Find gamer pics with the numbers you want, and those you removed- for Flyers it’s easy, because there are a ton on the MeiGray site:

Flyers68Flyers62

Put a large piece of paper over the removed number and trace the outline of it in the shape of the new number you want.  You can tell where the notches and holes in the 6 (and by inference the 8) will be by looking at the picture of the 62 and 68 and seeing how the notches line up with each other.

Based on the original 22, you picked a pretty good number which matches the old one quite well.  On the 6, the only places that are going to be significantly exposed are the bottom 2 corners, and the area about halfway down the right side.  For the 8, you might not have to do anything.  You might be able to leave all the rest of the staining alone.  And like mfitz said, the staining doesn’t look bad at all anyway, and probably won’t be tough to remove.  But I still have found the template useful in a few cases, especially one time where I had a hole in the jersey back to deal with and I wasn’t sure if the new number would cover it.

 

 

Thanks to @LAK74and @jsh139 for tipping me off to explore this route. The 68 jersey was a really interesting idea (wrong size though) and the mention of a big sale gave me reason to think I could swing this financially.

I actually found a jersey that I think will work REALLY well:
* Flyers home - check
* 14/15 -- same as 11/12 (Edge 2.0, details look identical to my eye)
* #63 -- I may not have to strip the "6" (original customization was done by Philly Express, so...), and even if there is residue the "8" would cover the entirety of the 3
* IT'S MY SIZE! 

Risk: The nameplate is 6 letters vs the 4 I'd like to go with. My last one peeled off absolutely clean; this one may not.

I'm not sure if PE will want me to remove none, just the nameplate & 3's, or everything. I suspect they might want me to remove everything but home that maybe they won't make me touch the 6s given i was their customization in the first place. This is game-issued, not used, so maybe it is cleaner.

It's not the 35% sale @jsh139 mentioned, but it is 20% off.

 

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In my experience, it’s far less likely to see heavy residue from a nameplate, basically every one I’ve ever done has come off like you described. 

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4 hours ago, artificialintuition said:

I'm not sure if PE will want me to remove none, just the nameplate & 3's, or everything. I suspect they might want me to remove everything but home that maybe they won't make me touch the 6s given i was their customization in the first place. This is game-issued, not used, so maybe it is cleaner.

It's not the 35% sale @jsh139 mentioned, but it is 20% off.

 

If you go this route, I'd probably just take the whole kit off.  You never know if there will be minor differences in the twill or sewing.  Plus, they'll probably charge you the same either way. 

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30 minutes ago, furiousd said:

If you go this route, I'd probably just take the whole kit off.  You never know if there will be minor differences in the twill or sewing.  Plus, they'll probably charge you the same either way. 

Got an email this morning. I had asked PE which route they'd like for me to go. 

They said to leave it all on--they do this all the time and are very good at it, and that it won't be a problem. 

They also said to send in the jersey with the residue for them to try to get it off. (Standard answer = If we can't get it off we can suggest a cover-up.)

 

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3 hours ago, mfitz804 said:

In my experience, it’s far less likely to see heavy residue from a nameplate, basically every one I’ve ever done has come off like you described. 

Thanks. The other one came off SO easy (it also appeared that the nameplate on mine was sewn with lighter thread and wider stitching than the #s). Since it was my first I didn't know if this was the norm. 

I can actually see plenty of residue on the back of the nameplate itself but none was left on the jersey (none!). On the other hand, I don't see any residue on the numbers themselves, but enough on the jersey.

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Suggestions on how to remove a bit of crest that is still stuck to the jersey? Reebok 2.0 air knit if that helps. 

1514488482408-vi.jpg

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Above question still stands, but I also have a question regarding name plate removal.

 

I picked up a reebok 2.0 practice jersey (not the 3.0) that has a nameplate attached. The rear is EDGE material, not airknit and the name plate must have been pressed down into the jersey before sewing because you can't lift up the center section the way you can with a crest. Is there something special that's needed to remove a name plate without ruining the material?

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23 minutes ago, mdwsta4 said:

Above question still stands, but I also have a question regarding name plate removal.

I picked up a reebok 2.0 practice jersey (not the 3.0) that has a nameplate attached. The rear is EDGE material, not airknit and the name plate must have been pressed down into the jersey before sewing because you can't lift up the center section the way you can with a crest. Is there something special that's needed to remove a name plate without ruining the material?

I just stripped a 2.0 where the nameplate was pretty glued/pressed on. I had to remove all the stitching and slowly pull up from the corners to get it started. Luckily it came off fine but left some residue which I need to clean off still. Would heating it up first with an iron help loosen the glue? 

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