thebiggoalie Posted April 26, 2015 Report Share Posted April 26, 2015 (edited) So the nameplate that I currently have is the wrong style then? Should it be the airknit? Ask for whatever material it is that you want. A lot of people make a fuss over what material a name plate should be, but when Jersey customizers are scrambling to put names on nameplates, they will usually grab whatever material they have available. Mine was a team issued jersey that I stripped the nameplate and numbers off of. That nameplate happened to be Bauer airknit. *And just so you know, Bauer/Nike airknit is different from regular airknit. Edited April 26, 2015 by thebiggoalie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LAK74 Posted April 26, 2015 Report Share Posted April 26, 2015 Mine was a team issued jersey that I stripped the nameplate and numbers off of. That nameplate happened to be Bauer airknit. But was it a team-issued that someone got lettered up somewhere with flo-knit, or was it an actual game-issued with a flo-knit plate put on by the team letterer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebiggoalie Posted April 26, 2015 Report Share Posted April 26, 2015 But was it a team-issued that someone got lettered up somewhere with flo-knit, or was it an actual game-issued with a flo-knit plate put on by the team letterer? Mine was a Jonsson Game-issue, and I'm pretty sure may have been used in preseason action although it showed little to no wear to it. I still have the nameplate although the jersey has been sold since. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vsxeworkingclass Posted April 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2015 http://www.classicauctions.net/lot-112878.aspx Here's a mesh Jagr from '97-98. The picture isn't that great, but the plate appears to be mesh as well. If I can't find any proof of him wearing the mesh white in '98 when he first wore the "C", then maybe I'll go with the alternate captain's patch instead to match the one I linked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LAK74 Posted April 26, 2015 Report Share Posted April 26, 2015 I've been finding quite a few photos of 1998/99 home gamers, and so far they've all been mesh, whether set 1 or 2. So while I still haven't seen a photo of a Jagr gamer from that year, I'd say it's a pretty safe bet that at least one of his white jerseys was mesh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vsxeworkingclass Posted April 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2015 I stripped all of the numbers and the nameplate today. The numbers "bled" on to the jersey, leaving a blueish outline. Would bleaching be an option, or am I totally screwed on this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LAK74 Posted April 27, 2015 Report Share Posted April 27, 2015 Did you try acetone? Hopefully you can get enough off so it won't be seen with such similar numbers on top of that area. Also if you send it to EPS they seem to be able to get just about anything out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vsxeworkingclass Posted April 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2015 I haven't tried removing the stains yet. Do you think EPS could remove such prominent marks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LAK74 Posted April 28, 2015 Report Share Posted April 28, 2015 Can you post pics? I would still try acetone or Goof-Off, if it's readily available. Even if you can't completely remove the color, it can still be a good learning experience for you. If you were going to send it to EPS anyway to be lettered, I can't think of anyone who would be more likely to get that stuff out. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vsxeworkingclass Posted April 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2015 I'll try to get some up tomorrow so you can see it! I was already planning on sending it to EPS for customization, but I'll at least try cleaning it myself first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfitz804 Posted April 28, 2015 Report Share Posted April 28, 2015 In my opinion, EPS's cleaning fees are well worth it. Thus far they have never not been able to get glue and stains out of any of my jerseys. I did send one with really bad glue on it that I am waiting on, we'll see what happens with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vsxeworkingclass Posted April 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2015 What was weird with this jersey, is that the numbers left no adhesive whatsoever on the shirt, but there is a ton of glue residue left from the nameplate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfitz804 Posted April 28, 2015 Report Share Posted April 28, 2015 Also, I'll add that Josh at EPS told me it's always better to leave it to him rather than trying it yourself, you may make it worse, etc. I was never inclined to do it myself where EPS charges only $5-15 for cleaning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LAK74 Posted April 28, 2015 Report Share Posted April 28, 2015 What I'm curious about is, the numbers are gold twill on the bottom and black on the top layer- so what color bled onto the jersey, and is it a thin outline following only the outer perimeter of the numbers, or a thick band of discoloration? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vsxeworkingclass Posted April 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2015 It looks exactly like there's a blue shadow where the numbers were. The sleeve stains seem to be darker than the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vsxeworkingclass Posted April 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2015 http://imgur.com/a/K4RFc Sorry for the sub-par pics, but you'll get the idea of what I meant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LAK74 Posted April 28, 2015 Report Share Posted April 28, 2015 Well, certainly it's your call whether you want to play it safe and leave it up to EPS, or try something on your own. If you would like to get an idea of whether all of that would be covered up anyway by the new numbers, feel free to do some measurements of the numbers (overall height, width, and length and width of the hole in the back 6), and I can give you measurements of the numbers EPS will put on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LAK74 Posted April 28, 2015 Report Share Posted April 28, 2015 Thanks for the pics; sorry I didn't see them until after my last post. That doesn't look too bad at all. The bluish residue looks like something that will come out with acetone. The stains from the nameplate numbers look a little harder; they'll definitely have to do a good job on the outer letters since the new nameplate won't cover those areas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vsxeworkingclass Posted April 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2015 Back numbers are 11.5" x 7.25" with the hole at 2" x 2.75" (height x width) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LAK74 Posted April 28, 2015 Report Share Posted April 28, 2015 The length of the EPS back numbers should be 12 3/8" long, so the stains will be pretty much covered in the vertical axis, but they will be only 6 5/8" wide, so a tiny bit of the stain may show on the side, but only if they can't get it out at all. The hole in the 6 will be only 1 7/16" wide, so you'll be OK horizontally, but the height will be 2 5/8", which may show a bit of the stain. We're also assuming the worst case scenario here, where the stain comes all the way to the edge of the old numbers, but from the photos it doesn't look like it did, so I think you'll be OK. The arm numbers will be about 3 3/4" wide and 4 1/4" high, but I think your arm numbers are more similar to EPS's than the back numbers were, so again, I think you'll be OK even if they can't get all of the stains out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vsxeworkingclass Posted April 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2015 Thanks for checking that out for me! From what I could tell from the reference picture I posted of the Jagr gamer, the sleeve numbers are nearly identical. The black from the numbers is what bled through, so there wasn't anything left from where the gold outline layer was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyers845 Posted May 4, 2015 Report Share Posted May 4, 2015 Figured I post this here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vsxeworkingclass Posted May 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2015 Sick! Definitely can't afford it any time soon though :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PensJerseys Posted June 16, 2020 Report Share Posted June 16, 2020 Sorry to bump a long dead thread, but this is on-topic so I figured why create another one... Anyone have a black "PITTSBURGH" Starter mesh jersey still? Any willing to sell? Now that I've found this white one it kind of ignited the desire to find a black. Curious if anyone had one in 52 or 50. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PensJerseys Posted August 20, 2020 Report Share Posted August 20, 2020 Well, since we're back I'll bump this a bit considering I posted this 2 months ago lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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